LASCO 06-9319 Quarter Turn 3-Way Valve, 1/2-Inch Iron Pipe Inlet X 3/8-Inch Compression Outlet X 1/4-Inch Compression Outlet, Chrome

I bought 2 of this item with the 1/2" threaded input vs compression - I don't think it will matter with my review though.Just like Biz-EE, I guess I jostled and loosened one of the 90 degree output assemblies during install of the valve and when hit with pressurized water, it leaked ever so slightly but persistently. My first thought was to gently re-tighten the output assembly back on to the main body of the valve. I gave it as much torque as I thought was reasonable but the small leak persisted.I took loose both output lines and removed the 90 degree output assembly from the valve body entirely for an exam. What I found was that a hardening sealant was being used to seal this joint. For the gear heads - think Permatex Indian Head Shellac. The actual sealant used here was light red or pink in hue though, so for all I know it was something similar to or actually nail polish. Point being, this type of sealant rarely works again if ever "cracked." It is typically used in spots that have little chance of ever being jostled or moved. The remnants of hardened sealant on the threads will also potentially sabotage other attempts to reseal the threads. You have to get all this off before moving forward. I used a small knife to break apart the sealant and get it off the threads - it does not take long at all - comes off in two or three shards.At that point I considered going back with teflon tape or a quality teflon paste pipe thread sealant but instead decided to o-ring the joint. I used an A011 o-ring rolled all the way down on the threads of the output assembly prior to threading and then re-tightened the output assembly back onto the main body using very mild torque. A week later - not a leak since.For the manufacturer, my suggestion would be to use a more permanent(solder the output in place prior to plating for instance) or more pliable sealant at this joint. The chances of this part of the valve being loosened during install in the normal confines under a sink is quite high in my opinion. The sealant needs to be accepting of a re-tightening, a hardening sealant is not that sealant.Other than the above, ithe valve appears to be well-made and fully functional otherwise and is being sold at a good price. I gave it 4 stars considering everything.

Installed with out any problems. Needed a dual output shut off value for the faucet and dish washer. I wanted this one to match the same brand as the one at the local ace hardware store. It installs with no problem and has been working so far after a month on the first try.

I've been plumbing for many years although I am not a professional plumber. I have installed many sinks and toilets and used many different water stops. Ordinarily I prefer sweat stops over compression stops. However, these are very well made. The machining and compression rings are very precise and it was easy to tighten to a secure seal with confidence. Will use them again.

LASCO 06-9321 Quarter Turn 3-Way Valve, 1/2-Inch Iron Pipe Inlet X 3/8-Inch Compression Outlet X 3/8-Inch Compression Outlet, Chrome LASCO 06-9321 Quarter Turn 3-Way Valve, 1/2-Inch Iron Pipe Inlet X 3/8-Inch Compression Outlet X 3/8-Inch Compression Outlet, Chrome - purchased two (2) of these valves last fall (2015). It was the exact configuration needed to split the cold water flow under my bathroom sinks. One routed to go to the cold water faucet and the other to go to the new on-demand electric hot water heater (topic for upcoming review) for the hot water faucet.I consider myself mechanically inclined though the extent of my professional mechanical experience is the eight (8) years spent assembling and repairing bicycles. Most bicycle hardware circa 1970's and 80s' required a fine touch - a little too tight and the non-standardized threads would strip or the bolts would break and due to lack of standards a torque wrench was useless. Building and truing spoke wheels for horizontal, vertical alignment, and proper dishing approaches a mechanical art form in my humble opinion but I had excelled at this skill for years. On the other side of the spectrum, I had replaced almost every part on my beat up 1965 Mustang for the 7 years I had owned it. My plumbing skills are not nearly as extensive but include installing/replacing garbage disposals, washing machines, under-sink water filters, faucets, toilet fill valves, toilet flappers, and custom sink drains. You may wonder why I bothered listing all this background information.Perhaps the explanation will head off flippant shrugs by those that might think this is the result of a club-handed Harry home owner. Nevertheless, the point I want to make is that this product needs to be treated with kid gloves.To prevent leaks I always use teflon tape on threaded pipe joints. Yes, the joints on this Lasco valve are compression types and theoretically should not require tape. However, due to this valve or the compression hoses used, three of the four joints leaked without the addition of teflon tape. Perhaps a plumber will 'pipe up' and inform us that adding tape to a compression joint is a no-no under any circumstance? When tightening the 3/8" hoses to the valves the original connection of the "Y" loosened with the base despite attempts to hold a wrench on the "Y" to keep it from turning (OK, this may be where operator error adds to the equation). So I removed each "Y" from the valve base and wrapped the threads with tape to prevent future leaks and to hold the "Y" in place in case the hoses were jostled by someone bumping it while moving objects under the sink. The first valve cooperated after delicate handling and there was no issue tightening the "Y" of tightening the 3/8" compression hose joints to the valve. I was NOT as successful with the second unit - see attached photos (as of July 12, 2016).I installed a brass version of dual outlet water valve from a large home improvement establishment. It cost a little more but the construction was much ore substantial (not shown in photos).

Angle stops are out of sight and out of mind until you need them. All too often the first time you close the angle stop to replace a faucet or fix a leak, the angle stop either doesn't fully shut off or it starts leaking. The design and construction of these valves suggests that they will shut off reliably and without leaks on that distant date when theg actually have to function as a valve.