Diamond Polishing Compound Polishing Paste USA Made 2,000 Grit 4-8 Microns for Marble Glass Metal Rock Jewelry Resin Silver Chrome Gemstone with High Concentration of Diamond Powder

Before and after. The mason was removing a brick ledge and his grinder nicked the window leaving a half dozen scratches. Not too deep but you could feel them. He felt terrible and offered to replace the pane ($600 was the estimate...). I had heard about glass scratch removers and ordered this and a ceramic oxide. The ceramic oxide was tried first and helped some but then used the this diamond compnound (4000 grit) and it got rid of 95% of the scratches. That was by hand so I am sure an orbital disk and maybe a more agressive grit would take out the last 5%. 1/50th the cost of new pane.

After months of trying to find a true working diamond paste, I finally decided to try TechDiamondTools. The pricing was great and quite frankly the cheap diamond paste was just not working for me (yeah...i tried to go cheap). I've been trying to find a reliable way to get scratches out of mineral glass and most internet searches claimed it was very difficult. Not only could I not find a guide to do this, but couldn't find a grit guide to use for mineral glass. The first thing I did was message the TechDiamondTools and asked for guidance. They replied to me several times and have been very courteous and helpful. They recommended several grits to try, so I went ahead and ordered.Here is what I used, and it works GREAT! Just be patient (this is the key to perfection).Rotary Tool (Cheap) I also used an adjustable speed control rotary tool with 3/32 pro bits compatible that is used for nail manicures. It's electric. I did a search on Amazon and the no longer sell it, but Pinkiou looks similar and it's cheap. I don't recommend using a high speed Dremel. I have one and it goes way to fast.I started with 600, then 1,500, 3,000, and finally 5,000 grit. The results were amazing!Now to keep things in perspective, I did mess up and used sandpaper on one of my other watches. Used 100 grit and that was a mistake. The pictures I posted, I didn't use sandpaper. On the other watch, it did get all the scratches the sandpaper made, however it took a bit more of time. Next time I'm using 2,000/1,500 grit sandpaper. I've read that's what should be used before using diamond paste. I currently have a 14,000 grit that I can't decide whether to use for polishing since the 5,000 did a superb job. I may just return that 14,000 and use the 8,000 for final polishing.Okay, back to the watch. the pictures are the result so the diamond paste. I "wish" that I had a picture of the watch before I even started, but I totally forgot to take some. The pictures are after I had already gone through using the 600 grit and the 1500 grit. As you can see the scratches I circled. Trust me before I started, these scratches were pretty bad. You could actually catch you fingernail on it. Not just a hairline scratch either. The final picture is the finished product, although it looks superb and flawless, I wonder what a final polish with 8,000 or 14,000 would do. I haven't tried that yet. Anyway, I am very pleased with DiamondTechTools, they actually worked with me to replace the 400 grit because it seemed watered down, but they made it right. As a hobby I work on Casio's digital watches and refurbish them, and the biggest problem with refurbishing is the scratches on the glass.Well to end this, I'd like to say I did order the 400 grit paste and will start with that to see if it cuts back on my time. The pictures of the watch I posted took me about 3 hours to get the scratches out, I'm hoping with 400 grit, I'm able to cut that time in half. I don't like to used sand paper, but I will if there are a lot of bad scratches, then I will. Just don't use 100 grit like I did. Use 2,000 or 1,500. I'd also like to say, if you use this process, your result may vary. I want to say that because I'm a very meticulous person and I take my time. I'm only putting this out because this actually worked for me after all failed attempts with other diamond paste, and no I didn't get any free products from TechDiamondTools. If Amazon lets me, since I ordered like 6 syringes of different grits, I want to post more pictures of scratched up watches and the results. Hope this helps folks out there that have not found any documents on getting scratches out of mineral glass, because there really isn't any clear document that outline this.Hope this help those watch enthusiast out there!! And thank you DiamondTechTools, ya'll are awesome and keep making those American Products GREAT!!!

Does the job better than my old green chunk of stropping compound.

The diamond paste is as described. It's thicker than I anticipated and somewhat difficult to spread out thin enough on my leather strop to perform well. Once applied. It does a nice honing job on my knives, chisels, and plane blades.

I had a 3.5 mm scratch in my magnifying glass-lamp (Neatfi Bifocals 1,200 Lumens Super LED Magnifying Lamp). I have not used such polishing products before. The scratch appeared mostly superficial. I bought a "mirror" polisher since it was mostly superficial. It took 20-30 minutes of polishing and the scratch was down to 1 mm size. This thickest area took an additional hour or more to polish out. The clarity of the glass now appears perfect--no scratches from the polisher, perfect translucency, scratch removed. I used an eyeglass cleaning cloth to polish with. In retrospect, It may have been better to buy a thicker polisher to remove the scratch and finished with the mirror polisher for time.

I purchased 6 microns (3K grit), 1 micron (14K grit) and .25 micron (100K grit) to be used as compound for strops. I purchased the 50% concentrate. I tried this diamond compound with really tight and smooth leather (feels like kangaroo tail), balsa wood and basswood. Basswood will be on a fixed angle system, which will be soon. This is what I have experienced so far:* The 50% is very aggressive, do not let the high grit fool you. Cuts and polishes very fast.* Use a very light coat on strops, like in the pic. Light coats take 24-48 hours to fully dry on leather, 36 hours on wood. For those 2"x6" strops in the pic I only used 0.2 grams per strop. Using a very thick credit card to spread across the strop.* The 6 micron was way to aggressive for what I wanted, can dull your knife if you do not keep the angle. Recommend a hard strop surface to prevent rolling of strop surface to not dull your knife.* Keep the angle or on a fixed angle system that has a stone compensator (to keep the apex angle) stropping will help to refine edge and further minimize micro burr, after main de-burring techniques. Use very light strokes, even the .25 and 1 micron is aggressive.* Off of a 1000 grit diamond stone, stropping 1 micron then .25 micron will give your edge the look of a 5K - 6K finish. A am speaking of minimal stropping.* Way more effective and aggressive than green or white rouge compounds. And much simpler to apply to a strop.* Lastly I do not recommend using for stropping before it is fully dried. You will be moving the diamonds from the surface of the strop when still wet and make the compound not as effective.

I gave this three stars simply because it is made in America. But it just didn't work on my scratch up phone screen. My friend had this and shared some with me. I tried it to no luck. I thought maybe if I bought some and used more then it may work. It didn't.