OREI 4K 120Hz eARC HDMI Audio Extractor, ARC Soundbar Converter, HDCP 2.3 – Dolby Atmos, HDR10+, Dolby Vision, Dolby Digital/DTS Passthrough for Sonos Bose Speakers, Optical & 3.5mm

My Pioneer receiver is a few years old and can't do HDMI 4K, so I bypassed it with my PS4 Pro with a direct HDMI connection to my display and then used the PS4's optical out to tie my receiver right back into the setup. The PS5 dropped an audio optical out, ouch. So now I needed a box like this. I felt like this product was currently a little expensive at $55 for "just an" audio extractor. I was tempted by Orei's HDMI 1x2 Splitter with same built-in audio extraction capabilities that was actually less expensive. However, the unique ARC support in this unit told me this was cutting edge (and these days format compatibility is all about "bandwidth"). And I've had terrible luck with splitting an HDMI signal with HDR10 so I went for this. I am glad I did. After a full day of use I experienced no video artifacts, cut-outs, or anything negative that too often happens with HDMI cabling and equipment add-ons like this. I also use a Hue Sync and if you do a lot with HDMI you know that each additional cable interconnection (I'll call that a "hop") adds the possibility of things not working correctly anymore. As I said, not the case for me with this device. I connected this inline in the last hop, between the Hue Sync's output and before the display's input. This way I could utilize any of the 4 input ports on the Hue Sync to send high quality audio to my receiver and the Hue Sync acts like an HDMI switch. So for those looking for verification before purchase my setup goes like this: PS5 HDMI out to PSVR in, PSVR out to Hue Sync in, Hue Sync out to Orei Audio Extractor in, Orei HDMI out to display in (and optical audio to receiver of course). Switched EDID setting accordingly, and voila!, I have full DTS sound coming out of my receiver from the PS5 and 4K (2180p) HDR10 on my display. One thing that may be worth noting is this is not an HDMI splitter despite the two output ports. The second HDMI port is audio only, and will send a 720P black screen as output. However, you could use that hook up to another HDMI supported device like a sound bar if you need the flexibility. The only con is that the manual is super tiny (actual text size required a magnifying glass) and super basic. It doesn't actually explain the functions of -using- the EDID or ARC selection buttons. I'm going to try looking on Orei's site but that seemed rather silly to me, especially for those less familiar with the "technical stuff". The device is other-wise physically plug and play (and yes, it requires the included power adapter). Final note, I did not have the need for ARC so I did not test that functionality. I know that may sound silly but that was not the point of my buying this device. Knowing it could support ARC told me it was very likely using the latest standards and that assumption appears to have paid off for me. I have no reason to assume it would not support ARC properly however, as it really seems like a very well built device that just lacks a decent -manual-.

Bought this item to get Dolby atmos with my Bose 600 sound bar. Im using an Apple TV 4K as my media player, a Samsung 4K tv with ARC, and using 4K certified HDMI cables, Pros: when it works you will get true Dolby Atmos. Picture quality and sound are great(WHEN IT WORKS). Cons: it’s very inconsistent. The sound will drop out when switching from content that’s playing in 5.1 to content in 7.1 or Dolby Atmos. After three months I have found a new problem, it no longer wants to turn on. I have change usb plugs and cables several times! Customer support was not helpful at all. Don’t even try calling they won’t answer or call you back!!! Just don’t buy the product!!

Works great. Able to use E arc on stereo systems with only Arc t.v. Don't think it's full because it takes signal from content but still works. Every few weeks it will make a strange noise or won't work until you disconnect all cables , turn off then on Arc setting in t.v. , reconnect everything then turn everything on again. It took a few days to figure this out. I think it's due to it being powered on 24/7. There's no on/ off switch. Also would be perfect if it would split this signal more than once but have it connected to an e Arc soundbar and an e Arc receiver simultaneously but separately.

Update: I suspect the unit is not completely compatible with the Apple TV 4K. I have found that I need to reset it by literally unplugging the HDMI cable [source] from the Apple TV after powering the unit off. Then it works. The EDID light and ARC light (when set) stays on when the source cable is connected even when its power cable is disconnected. This unit does precisely what I want. I wish it could do 40Gbs / 48Gbs but its all I could find. It's audio extraction port fowards multipcm pass through to my NuForce surround sound processor from Japan. It sends everything through precisely as it should. The HDA925 supports Dolby Vision 4:2:2 as well as other video formats. The audio supports Dolby Atmosphere and on down. When streaming you get a multiplicity of audio formats and it seems to pass them all through unaltered for the sound processor to handle. The picture and audio quality are superior at 18Gbs. However, it is very sensitive. It seems to be powered by the source HDMI port not the external power supply? When I unplug the power supply the unit is still active. It doesn't mention this anywhere in the documentation. So, you must be very careful to power down all attached devices even if they are indirectly attached before moving/removing HDMI cables otherwise you can easily blow the audio extraction segment. Sometimes when your components sleep and you wake them up to use them it produces a blurry picture. You then have to reset the device by plugging and unplugging it. And you lose the audio! I gave it only 3 stars due to its extreme sensitivity and inconsistent performance. But, its the ONLY audio extraction video forwarding device that supports Dolby Vision and correct audio extraction. I have a couple of Go Fanco devices that are true HDMI splitters that require a lot of adjustment of the DIP switches to get everything to work and they don't support Dolby Vision. But, they are very sturdy, reliable and consistent when you get them into the right configuration. The HDA925 does exactly what I need without having to tweak DIP switches but it is far more fragile and sensitive even when plugged in to a surge suppressor as they recommend.

This extractor works perfectly at 4K at 60Hz. I use this with a GTX1650 connected to a 4K TV and an old Denon receiver. I chose this because for anyone that has tried to use 2 HDMI out ports on a video card and plugging one into a receiver, you will have to either duplicate the phantom screen or extend to a phantom screen. Either case still requires the video card to use more gpu resoources. Not great for playing games or playing back 4k video. Setting the EDID at 2ch or 5.1 only shows Stereo available on the computer. EDID at 7.1 will show 8 channels available. Out 1 will depend on the capability of the TV and what it reports back on EDID to the source. Most TV are only Stereo, so EDID on Out 1 will be Stereo. Out 2 will be the Audio Only HDMI out port and will be what the receiver reports back on EDID to the source. So 5.1 receiver will report 6 channels, and 7.1 receiver will report 8 channels, etc. A pro I noticed is that all audio out ports will output sound simultaneously. There is no way to select or turn on and off sound output ports. So the HDMI to TV, Optical, Audio Only HDMI and 3.5mm will all play sound. For me it is no big deal to just mute the TV if I want to use another sound playback device. A con I noticed is that the Optical out port will only send Stereo PCM sound. Bitstreaming did not work for me, and I was not able to test Dolby or DTS encoded file sources. Not sure if it was my setup that was not correct or the extractor not able to do it. So if I am using Optical I have to downmix 5.1 and 7.1 to Stereo in order to get audio. Overall I still think this is the best extractor on the market. Plug and play and very easy to use. Would recommend.

It mostly works, but I basically have to power it off and back on to use it every time. It does pull off the audio from an HDMI source which is great to feed into my AVR. However sometimes the sound doesn’t come through. Not sure what that issues is. So I have a separate stereo cable to bypass to my AVR just in case.

I bought this as my living room TV has ARC and not eARC. AppleTV 4K to Sonos Arc works, however, Atmos audio will not work as AppleTV does not support uncompressed Atmos (don't let anyone else tell you otherwise). This device makes that possible without buying a brand new tv. Well... sometimes. Spend the extra $250 or upgrade your TV because my family was ready to rip the TV, the sound bar, this audio extractor and me out of the house because this thing intermittently will send metadata?? or some other non audio intelligible sound through the Sonos system. This seemed to happen consistently on streaming services, but honestly it would happen randomly and repeatedly on any source. Sonos, TV, etc all updated to the latest versions btw.

This box works well, for gaming -- it seems to not even interfere with Freesync support, and auto-low-latency mode detection. This allows me to play games 4k @60Hz with low latency, while extracting the 7.1 audio PCM signal for my older surround sound system. I did have to fiddle with it a bit.. debugging HDMI connections is a bit confusing, because of the way these devices all handshake with one another when plugged in. And at first, I had some problems with the video dropping out (black screen) for a few seconds.. but replacing the power adapter with another 5v/1A adapter, which I happened to have, seemed to solve that? Some pro-tips here are (1) be sure which HDMI ports on your tv support the resolutions and features you care about (eg. Freesync, HDR, or ARC). And (2) try attaching devices in order from the source (eg. Xbox) to the destination (the TV)... or vice versa (from the TV back to the source) to help the various devices all discover and handshake with each other properly.