Park Tool Compact Crank Puller

I needed to replace the pedal assist sensor on my e-bike, and I discovered I needed to take off the crank arm. I got this tool even though it was a little more expensive because I heard that Park Tool is a good brand. It worked well. My pedal crank was on pretty tight, so I was glad that I got a good brand because the metal was nice and strong. Supposedly a cheap crank puller might be made of weaker metal. I also like that it is universal, meaning it can remove both square taper and splined crank arms in case I need to do that in the future. To the person who said they had to use a wrench rather than a socket, that's not true, at least not in my case. What I had to do was to take off the rotating tip before the socket would fit. It comes off easily because it's made to be switched with the one on the other side to switch from square taper to splined. Perhaps that reviewer didn't know this. All in all it's a very good tool and worth five stars.

Great tool, don’t go cheap

This crank puller worked perfectly for my Nautilus U616 upright exercise bike. I needed to remove the pedals so that I could replace the servo motor, and this crank puller did the trick. It would have been nice if it came with instructions because it requires quite a bit of force. It ended up being pretty intuitive, but I was definitely concerned that I could break something if I was using it incorrectly.

Great puller for two styles of vintage cranks on tapered shafts. My old tool wouldn't work with tapered crank attached with nuts (threaded end) because it wouldn't retract far enough. This worked like a charm. Use with an adjustable wrench. Make sure washers are removed if it is a bolt style. There are many helpful Youtube videos. The threading on mine was perfect - there were some prior recalls indicated on the Park Tool site for improperly cut threads.

Product solved my issue of "stuck" 3pc cranks. Worked perfectly for GT Power Series 3pc Chromoly BMX cranks. The crank arms easily removed thanks to the fine thread count (high TPI) of this tool, which allowed ample torque. Before purchasing this, I'd tried hammering the spindle via the torque bolt, which didn't work.

I used the Park Tool Crank Puller on a Giant Rincon Mountain Bike bought in 1998. I could not find any information on the bike, so I do not know what type of crank this bike has. I chose the Park Tool brand because I was assuming this brand would be made of a hardened durable material, and that does appear to be the case. I have bought cheaper tools in the past and the metal used would deform by rounding or twisting. I gave this tool four stars instead of five because I could not fit a socket on the tool to remove the crank. The reason is that there are roller bushings on each side of the hex portion, and they interfere with getting a socket of the correct size to be used. Instead, an open box wrench has to be used. To get the leverage I initially needed I had to use an adjustable wrench, which had a longer handle, and hit the end of the handle with a rubber mallet. There were no problems with the wrench maintaining a tight fit. I have added two pictures of the tool to try and show how the roller protrudes just enough (although may be hard to see the difference) to interfere with a socket.

This is an amazing tool. It's well thought out to be both portable and useful.You will need to use your own 22mm and 15mm wrenches with this tool as it doesn't have a built-in handle like some of the larger pro-shop crank pullers that take up a LOT of room in a tool box and are not portable if you are out on the road on tour.The 22mm wrench helps turn in the outside portion of the tool into the crank threads so you probably want to make sure you have it in more than just a couple of threads or you will end up pulling threads out of your crank and ruining it. Make sure you have the inner portion backed out almost all the way so that it doesn't give you the false impression that the tool has bottomed out in the crank when instead it is bottoming out on the bottom bracket and not screwed in all the way. One could probably get away with using a small adjustable wrench on this part because it doesn't take much effort to spin the outer portion into the crank threads as they are usually protected by the end cap and should almost be easy enough to screw in by hand most of the way.I use my Trixie tool to turn the inner section as its a good 15mm box-end wrench and it's in my everyday tool roll anyhow. Since this tool is light enough to take on tour I have it planned out that I'll use the Trixie to operate this wrench on the 15mm head and an adjustable wrench to screw it into the crank via 22mm head. Once the outer portion is screwed in all the way you don't need to use the 22mm wrench any more and can just spin the inner portion of the tool with the 15mm.Others have said that the removable rotating ends fall off easily and don't stay on. My tool doesn't have that problem. There is a rubber O-ring or something in there that is holding it on. Perhaps that can rip when they are taken off roughly and then allow them to be loose. I've pulled mine off and swapped the rings a number of times and they have no issues with being too loose or falling off.Cons:This tool is a compact portable version and doesn't come with wrenches that are permanently attached and create a TON of weight in your tool roll when touring. It might become necessary to service your bottom bracket or cranks on the road and without this tool you are at the mercy of the LBS (if there IS one near where you are). This tool can be used with your Trixie or any 15mm box wrench (or 15mm pedal wrench in a pinch) and an adjustable wrench that opens up to a paltry 22mm (that's not even 1" to the metric-impaired -1" is about 26mm)Park tool makes a bench version of this tool so there is no reason to mark this tool down for what it is NOT.

Great product. Worked great!