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⚙️ Upgrade your engine’s heartbeat with genuine precision!
The Genuine GM 12639250 Crankshaft Oil Seal Housing (Rear) is a precision-machined, vehicle-specific replacement part designed to ensure a perfect fit and reliable seal for your engine’s rear crankshaft. Featuring upgraded bolts for easier installation and durability, this genuine GM component is highly rated by professionals for effectively fixing oil seal leaks on popular models like Silverado and Escalade.
























| ASIN | B00F677EHE |
| Auto Part Position | Rear |
| Brand Name | GM GENUINE PARTS |
| Colour | Natural |
| Customer Reviews | 4.8 4.8 out of 5 stars (715) |
| Exterior Finish | Machined |
| Fit Type | Vehicle Specific Fit |
| Included Components | Engine Crankshaft Seal Housing |
| Item Dimensions | 32.3 x 31 x 8.1 centimetres |
| Item Type Name | Fasteners & Misc Eng,Fasteners & Misc Eng |
| Item Weight | 2.32 Pounds |
| Manufacturer | GM Genuine Parts |
| UPC | 195491151208 |
C**Y
Only way to go ...buy Genuine
G**Y
This kit fixed my rear main seal leak on my Silverado. My stepdad ordered the same set and we fixed his Cadillac Escalade as well. The upgraded bolts are nice. Some reviews say it is not genuine OEM. I really don't know if it is or isn't. I'm not sure how you can tell but it definitely fits correctly and does the job. It is also easier to do with this kit than swapping the seal without a new housing.
L**.
Excelente si arreglamos el problema de mi motor gracias 🙋🏻♂️
C**A
Genuine GM replacement part. Fit perfectly and made repairing the rear engine cover leak a simple process. GM has several EXPENSIVE specialty tools to install the front and rear covers, and oil pan on the LS style engine. I have never used them, and have not had any problems. With the main seal preinstalled, the OE tools would not work anyway. Additionally, the rear main seal can center itself over the rear crank snout, unlike the front cover where it actually seals against the damper pulley, not the crank. The OE method, installs the rear cover without the seal, then installs the seal, so positioning of the cover prior to the seal would be critical. Bolts originally were a 10mm head, revised bolts were a 13mm head. Installation: I applied a small bead of RTV to the joint of the oil pan gasket and the rear of the block on the left and right sides. I positioned the cover with the seal protector still fitted, as the bolts are retained by the cover seal. I worked my way around and started all of the cover bolts and allowed the cover to loosely fit over the crank snout, pushing the seal protector from inside of the seal. Once the cover bolts were finger snug to the back of the engine, I installed the two long oil pan bolts and torqued them to 106 in-lbs. The cover bolts are then torqued to 18 ft lbs. Before doing that, I snugged them all with a socket then loosened the long oil pan bolts to ensure the cover was pulled into place. Then retorqued the oil pan bolts, and then the rear cover bolts in a criss cross pattern.
S**S
Definitley the only way to go, this is the upgraded part too with the larger diameter pan bolts for a more even torque around the pan, crank seal is already aligned and installed in the pan, comes with the pan gasket too, It's a drag to do this, ( drive shaft removal, tranny and linkage removal, exaust removal, tranny lines, and front driveshaft for 4x4) Not a job to do on your back with the vehicle jacked up. The parts are the best for this PITA job, thanks to our friends at GM and the LS motor (small block chevy re-design) they should be taken out back and strung up, this ain't your normal small block chevy icon we grew up with....just venting!!! You will need a lift and a transmission stand, and a good friend to help! It's an all day affair. So in my opinion DON'T be cheap and get inferior parts, get the best the first time, only a few dollars more in the whole scheme of things, you only want to do this once.It's not difficult, just got to have the right stuff upfront. No issues since...dry as a bone
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