Fuel Bladder Outdoor Petrol Storage Bag, Foldable Transfer Tank Emergency Tanks for Extended Range Fishing, Boating,Yachting, Sailing, Ferrying, Marine Cruising Trips Motor Sport Racing(1*0.8*0.55m/40

I am testing this 53 gallon fuel bladder by filling it with air, prior to filling with gasoline. This is to make sure there are no obvious leak points. The hardware that is supplied with this bladder is basic, and I had to source some replacements via Amazon, but I'm ok with that. I view the hardware as small stuff, the main thing is the bladder itself, which appears to be made of quite tough material, taped well at the seams. So there are two bulkheads in the bladder, one is for filling, the other for emptying. The fill bulkhead hardware seems to be fine, I put tape on the threads and tightened it up, and all seems good there. The other bulkhead needed more work - the nipple they provided (male-male 3/4 inch) has non-tapered threads on both sides, and the female threads on the bulkhead also appear non-tapered, which made me have to sit down and rethink how this goes together. You see, the ball valve they also provided is tapered thread, so you can't just screw that (female) onto a male non-tapered nipple. It is not compatible, which might be why the other reviewer talked about the hardware leaking. It couldn't work. So I sourced an adapter via Amazom, for 3/4 inch male non-tapered to 3/4 inch male tapered, which is available on Amazon as "Dixon Valve BSM66 Brass Fitting, Connector, 3/4" NPTF Male x 3/4" NPSM Male", ASIN B00DE7PJG6. This allows me to connect the ball valve to the bladder. Then I needed to get a way to input air, and for that I found "GODESON 1/4" NPT Tank Valve, Anti-Corrosion Brass Schrader Valve with 1/4" Male NPT,Using with Air Compressor Tanks(Pack of 4)", ASIN B08975661L. Next I needed a way to connect that to the ball valve, which I found via "ZOUNI 2pcs Brass Reducer Hex Bushing, 3/4" NPT Male to 1/4" NPT Female Heavy Duty Brass Threaded Pipe Fitting Reducer Adapter (3/4"MNPT - 1/4"FNPT)", ASIN B0CW2Q3ZYX.With everything taped up, and the ball valve open, I proceeded to gently fill with air from my Makita DMP181ZX inflator. It took a while, but eventually the bag filled out, and I stopped when I could feel that it was inflated, but not very tight, like a soft beach ball. I closed the ball valve and removed the schrader valve adapter, and just left it overnight. Today it is still in the same state, hasn't deflated any that I can detect, so to me that says that it is basically sound, at least for air, there are no big obvious holes or tears. This gives me some confidence for the next test, which is to fill with actual gasoline.I have yet to do that, since I currently have no use for 50 gallons of gasoline on the back of my truck bed (I got this thing for emergencies, such as, oh I don't know, the Strait of Hormuz being shut down and gas shooting up in price suddenly... you know, very unlikely stuff lol). I might try it, but for now I feel pretty confident that the bag is at least basically sound. You might have to get some small bits of additional hardware, but I view that as being par for the course with these things. How it will deal with actual gasoline, has yet to be determined.For the emptying part, I have a couple of options. One is a portable transfer pump (ASIN B0CY44TVNJ), another is a hose (B001W1PQNW) combined with nozzle (B09T38814T). Either way, I am also looking at ways to prevent static discharge accidents, namely a grounding clamp (B07PMMLTMV). The idea there is you want to prevent static charge building up during transfer of gasoline, either when filling or emptying the bladder. So the grounding clamp allows you to connect the bladder and nozzle to the truck chassis, and/or the fuel station equipment (there is usually a place to do that). This will stop sparks from flying, which could ignite gasoline vapors and cause an explosion if you're not careful. Since the bladder will be sitting in the truck bed (being too big to move by hand when full), it becomes necessary to ground it to stop static charge build-up. It's very dangerous to fill portable gas cans on the truck, they always say to put the can on the ground when filling to stop that from happening. So I am taking the same approach with this bladder, thinking of ways to ground it while on the truck bed.Update: I had a brainstorm and realized that I really don't need to put the bladder on my truck. I have Wavian NATO style jerry cans, quite a few of them, which have my stored gas for the generator. So it hit me that it would be much more practical and easier to just keep the bladder at home in the garage, safe on the floor, and take those 5 gallon jerry cans to the gas station to be filled, bring them home, and fill the bladder from them. This would be both safer (transporting small, strong, metal cans) and less conspicuous (vs filling a huge bladder in the truck bed). I have 26 of the Wavian cans, stored in a couple of the Rubbermaid X-large deck boxes (which conveniently fits 12, one for each month of the year, so I label the cans with months and each 1st of the month, I rotate that can into one of the vehicles, which means none of the cans has more than one year old gas). I store non-ethanol gasoline with Stabil, and one year is well within the capabilities of Stabil. So my plan now is that if/when some emergency is happening, and it becomes obvious that I need to get more gas to have on hand, then I set up the bladder in the garage, empty 10 of the Wavian cans into it (50 gallons), and then take those 10 cans to the gas station (maybe in multiple trips, again to be less conspicuous) to be refilled. I think this should work.The main complaint, in summary, about this bladder seems to be the hardware they give you for getting gas out - which is really trivial, a couple of doodads that cost a few dollars tops from Amazon. The "hard" part here is the bladder itself, and from what I can tell (more than a week now filled with air, still tight) it seems good to me. So four stars, just taking one off for the non-sensical nipple (which is non-tapered on both sides, which is fine for the bladder side, since that appears to be non-tapered, but not ok for the ball valve, which has a female NPT thread (tapered)). The hardware issues aside, I think this seems like a bargain, since similar fuel bags from other vendors cost much more. Durability still to be discovered, but the basic thing itself appears sound. Hope this was useful.

It leaks gas everywhere! I had it for over a month past the return date. The fittings do not seal at all so gas pours everywhere.

I purchased two of these, one is a 130-gallon and the other is a 70-gallon. I looked at a lot of other products, and they cost a lot more, and I’m pleased with how well he has worked. The bags are very thick and seem to be very durable. The fittings provided are fine, not great but they work well. I temporarily put the 130-gallon tank in my truck bed and fill it with fuel, which I then fill my boat with using a transfer pump. I have the second 70-gallon bag in my boat, which I use as a reserve tank. So far, it all seems to be working well. You need to be sure that you use a good quality gasoline-approved Teflon tape on all the fittings.