Canyoneering (How To Climb Series)

I would like to thank the author for writing this guide, which fills a needed niche by providing a good overview of canyoneering techniques. In general, I think the book offers a lot of great info for both beginning and intermediate canyoneers. I especially appreciated the photos of the various canyoning-specific hardware configurations and knots, the brief discussion of advanced anchors, and the rescue technique section. Though, as other reviewers have noted, perhaps there could be a better way to organize the information to avoid overwhelming beginners. Maybe starting with a section on what skills and tools you are likely to encounter and need on your first (guided) day of canyoneering, then building from there?Regardless, beyond these structural choices, there are a few really serious issues with this book, including several instructions that deviate from accepted norms outside of canyoneering, and in so doing could easily get you killed. These problems appear to arise from a common problem in the US canyoneering community: the perception that the sport is new, therefore no one else knows anything useful and other rope management skills like those of rock climbing do not apply. In fact, the author essentially says that early in the book, drawing a sharp line between the two.This is silly. There is nothing new about canyoneering rope work, which borrows--like all rope work does--from other traditions that are sometimes hundreds of years old. These traditions include not just rock climbing, but aid climbing, ice climbing, alpinism, crevasse rescue, caving, tower and other technical rope work and rigging, arborism, sailing, swiftwater rescue, whitewater boating, and even horse packing and slacklining to name a few. The wise user of ropes does well to study widely.Widespread failure to recognize this history means that even highly capable US canyoneers often have serious blind spots. The author clearly demonstrates his, most dangerously in suggesting on page 52 that using one's cowtails to alternately clip into anchored sections of fixed vertical handline is a good safety strategy. This seems intuitive and sensible, when in fact, a seemingly minor bodyweight fall of only a couple of feet down a static line like this generates higher than factor 2 fall forces that can cause anchors, slings and harnesses to fail...not to mention the meat inside them. Clipping in like this with static cowtails has led to death and severe injury in Via Ferrata, which is why that sport invariably requires you to use some kind of cowtail energy absorber.In general, the author frequently mushes the difference between static and dynamic ropes in situations like this where a technique that may be entirely acceptable for one can be seriously dangerous for the other. The discussion of belay techniques is another of these areas, where lead climbing on a static line above your belayer--or allowing slack to develop when climbing below--could be disastrous: yes, this is more of a concern with rock climbing, but as canyon difficulty increases, rock climbing moves become a standard part of canyoneering as well. One would hope that developing canyoneers would learn these things as they go along, but as this book demonstrates, the US canyoneering community as a whole is inadequately informed about ropework.A few other corrections that may be helpful:- A "Mae West" canyon is not so named because it looks sinuous from above. It is called this because it's "top-heavy", i.e. wider above than below. In correcting this error I undoubtedly sound pedantic, but the reason for distinguishing a canyon like this from a parallel-sided canyon, or a Bombay canyon that widens as it deepens is that the effect of a fall is very different and must be taken into consideration. A fall that may not be a big deal elsewhere can leave you inextricably wedged in a Mae West section.- DEET in canyons: I find this recommendation appalling and hugely environmentally insensitive. While it's possible that DEET may not be a huge issue if sufficiently diluted, the fact is that canyon pools are generally small in volume and provide all the water that is available to desert organisms, including the pothole fauna that live most or all of their life cycle in the water (fairy shrimp, tadpole shrimp, clam shrimp, tadpoles, etc.). With increasing canyon use, there is no acceptable reason to use DEET, sunscreen, or any other chemical that will wash off your body and into the pools. Most sensible canyoneers already use insect-deterring long sleeves and pants to protect against abrasion, anyway. Add a bug net to your head if you are that delicate.- The author is incorrect in stating that there is a negative connotation to aid climbing within the rock climbing community. Free climbing and aid climbing are different disciplines. Adding an aid move to a free climb is common, and not seen as a problem as long as you aren't claiming a free ascent.- The pictures on pages 73, 74, 83 and 98 depict a canyoneer who is inadequately dressed for the activity, who will certainly fall out of her harness if she tips upside down, and will certainly come out of the day with bloody knees, regardless. Pictures in a guidebook should always show proper technique, or at least identify potential problems.- The anti-bolting ethic in canyoneering (and much rock climbing) described here is snide, absurdly idealized, and often endangers the less skilled for no defensible reason since advanced canyoneers and climbers certainly appear to have zero problem placing bolts where needed to support their own higher level of skill. It should be adequate to simply point out that placing bolts is fraught with potential for deadly error, and should only be attempted by qualified and experienced people who take into consideration the experience and safety of everyone who will see and or use those bolts in the future.

I picked up this book because I have been canyoneering for several years but am still dependent upon others to be the expert in the canyon. This book purchase was a step towards educating myself on how to be a proficient canyoneer.First, I appreciate David's willingness to write this book, which is much needed in the canyoneering community, and I am sure was no small feat. It is easy to see how knowledgeable David is in canyoneering. I would give the book 5 stars if that was the only thing I was rating - author's knowledge.My main problems with the book include:1- The book is touted for canyoneers of all levels. I have done scrambling, handlining, rapelling, etc. in the canyons and would consider myself somewhere between beginner and intermediate. With this said, I was surprised at how difficult a time I had following along in certain sections of the book. I feel like this book does a lot of assuming on reader knowledge in places. Because of that, I do not think this book is a good fit for beginners (unless you are willing to know that you will not understand many of the concepts in the book) despite the books claim to be for canyoneers of all levels. I think this could be remedied with more detailed descriptions in places which can help the reader follow along.2- I am surprised that Falcon guides would put out a book that had some basic grammatical issues. I would not necessarily expect someone who is a field expert to be an expert writer but I would expect the publishing company to do a better job of editing and organizing the book.3- Lastly, for some reason, it bothers me so that the book provides guidance on ideal clothing and gear for traveling through canyons and then goes on to display many, many pictures that do not follow the guidance. I just feel like it undermines the validity of the book, unnecessarily.In my humble opinion, I think this book is best for people who already have core competency in most/all aspects of canyoneering and are looking for a book to help freshen up on skills or learn a few new skills.

As a climber, former rope access tech and professional rigger who is interested in canyons, I found aspects of this book interesting and informative yet I am seriously concerned some of the the rigging and rescue techniques will get people killed. There is decades of refinement of modern climbing, rescue and high angle rope work. I would be very interested in hearing if this what the canyoneering community considers to be best practices. Snatch rescues where the victim clips into your belay loop and not a master link? Where's the alpine butterfly in the toolkit? Clove hitch blocks are what again? And oh yeah, the woman displaying good rappelling form is wearing a loose harness and rapping on a fully cross loaded carabiner and the guy modeling inporvided extensions better double check his harness.

Decent book. Worth reading for me.As a 5.10 lead rock climber, 99% of this info will be redundant for you. If you haven't cleaned routes or done much rock climbing - maybe get the book.I got the book more just to confirm industry standard beliefs and reinforce the importance of them in my mind, not to actually learn something new. Much like an advanced motorcycle rider would still take the MSF course every year. It's good to hear it.

This book has a lot of very good information. I would comment that there is one area in the book which I believe needs adjustment - Anchors. They show a rope being looped directly into a runner for a rap station (macrame). This is an absolute no-no in my opinion! Ropes have enough friction to melt runners (even if its a static rope and a small loop). Use a carabiner or quick-link. Other than that criticism, the book is well written and has lots of diagrams and pictures to explain the concepts. I have learned quite a few little tricks from it. Recommended.

product as published. very quick.

The very, very, very basics. I don't think it would give a novice enough to know to go into just any canyon, but it is a good place to start.

I think this is the most helpful book I’ve come across regarding canyoning.