2 Port 1x2 Powered HDMI 1 in 2 Out Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D | Model: VHD-1X2MN3D

It makes it possible to plug a computer into your TV and stream from commercial sites or watch Blu-Ray and similar videos by stripping HDCP. Or, you can split a signal to two screens, but the second signal may cause HDCP issues. This is older technology. It works with HDMI 1.2 and 1.3. Don't expect 4k video and 10 bit sound. It works fine with 5.1 surround sound and 1080P picture quality. I think the lights are silly, but the entire device hides well behind the TV leaving only the source cable hanging so you can plug in your laptop or computer. I didn't experience any heat issues. I had no issues plugging a MacBook Pro, Windows 10 Acer or Windows 11 Lenovo into a 2011 Samsung 3D TV.

I have read several reviews of the ViewHD splitter on the internet, but after trying a different brand of HDMI splitter (http://www.amazon.com/splitter-ports-swither-XBOX360-Blu-ray-Xbox/dp/B003UYOEMI/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top) which did not work properly I was a bit skeptical. I am using my for a bit of an unusual situation, and I want to share how I am using the ViewHD splitter in case anyone else is trying to accomplish the same thing. I have Time-Warner Cable, and I utilize a Ceton InfiniTV 6 cablecard adapter that allows me to save TV shows on my computer (like a DVR only with much more hard drive space and it records up to six shows recording at once - a great product by the way) but allowed me to eliminate my monthly DVR rental fee. Unfortunately Time-Warner Cable designates just about all of their channels as copy-once. What that means is that you cannot view the files other than from the computer onto which they were originally recorded, and you cannot convert the files on the computer to a different format in order to then put them on an iPad, Kindle, or smart phone (e.g. for long car trips or airplane trips for our children) or to save them if you have to change your computer's hardware. Other cable companies (Verizon Fios, Comcast) do not have this restriction, but I cannot get those where I live. I have a Hauppauge Colossus recording device, and I used to record TV shows off of our Time-Warner DVR box through the component output. But now that I no longer have the Time-Warner DVR box and just have the Ceton InfiniTV with a cablecard, I do not have component output as an option. What I was intending to use the splitter for was to strip the HDCP from the WTV files so that I could re-record shows from one computer back to another computer in a different format so that I could then convert them to mp4 files and use them on our iPad or be able to watch them on a different computer on my home network. The previously mentioned 1X2 HDMI splitter was unable to accomplish this. But with the ViewHD splitter I was able to do exactly what I had set out to do. I have an HDMI cable going from my HTPC to the ViewHD input port. I have another HDMI cable going from the ViewHD 1 output port to my TV. That works great for watching shows recorded on the HTPC. When I want to record the show to another computer in a different format, I run another HDMI cable from the ViewHD 2 output port into the Hauppauge Colossus HDMI input port and...voila! It works perfectly! I can now save these shows onto another computer in .TS, mp4, or M2TS formats. From there I can convert them to any other format if necessary and/or edit them (e.g. taking out the commercials - for which I use VideoReDo software - another great product, by the way.) So, all in all, this ViewHD HDMI splitter works perfectly and produces two identical high-definition signals from one HDMI source. And for the price you cannot beat it! ADDENDUM (07/06/2014) - I also have now run the HDMI output from my computer to the ViewHD splitter and then run one HDMI output cable to my monitor and the second HDMI output cable back into the Hauppauge Colossus on the same computer. With a little bit of trial and error with the speakers I am now able to record back into the same computer instead of having to run a longer HDMI cable from one computer to another. This box is fantastic!

Used this to convert the HDMI output of a Playstation TV (PSTV) into VGA, so I could remotely play a PS4 on an old monitor (yes, really). This box removes the HDCP from the HDMI and then I had a separate cheap HDMI to VGA cable that would also split out the audio to a 3.5mm headphone jack. At first I tested this with my not-old TV through its 'Computer' VGA input port, but I was getting a blank screen and I was worried I had gotten a 'newer' model that doesn't work with HDCP as many reviewers have been complaining about. I could plug my laptop or a RaspberryPi into the splitter and it would work fine but the PSTV or Xbox360 were a no go (because of the HDCP issues apparently). Unplugged / replugged / turned it off and on again / used different cables but nothing seemed to work and I was getting ready to write up my bad review. As a last ditch effort, I plugged the VGA cord into the old computer monitor and everything immediately started working. Without this splitter, the simple HDMI to VGA cable did not work with the monitor as expected, so this splitter does seem like it's stripping out the HDCP, it just didn't seem like it at first when I used it with my TV. Its hard to draw conclusions since I have a complicated setup and I don't know how exactly these splitters and converters work, but perhaps there are certain TVs / monitors that simply won't work with this device for whatever reason. My recommendation if you're having problems with HDCP is to try it on another TV/monitor and perhaps you'll have better luck. If that doesn't work out, at least this device is cheap and it was worth giving it a shot. Bonus: My HDMI to VGA cable also has a micro USB power connector on it and I was bummed that I would need so many power cords for my setup (separate cords for the PSTV, splitter, and HDMI to VGA cable). I discovered though that when I power my HDMI to VGA cable via USB, somehow it also sends power to this splitter through the HDMI cable, thus I don't need the splitter to be plugged into power at all (all the LEDs light up and everything). And, when I connect the USB cord to the PSTV, the PSTV will only supply power when it is on. In short, when I have the PSTV off, it powers down everything, when I turn the PSTV on, everything powers on. It's magic how that all worked out. Long term reliability of the setup is TBD, but so far it's been reliable and it's nice not having this splitter plugged into the wall, taking up a socket, and 'on' indefinitely. I'll update the review if any issues crop up but so far I'm really happy with how it all turned out.

So I bought this device as a HDCP filter/stripper or whatever for my PS3, since that system had given me trouble with my Elgato HD60 S+ capture card, where I wouldn't get any kind of signal on either my TV or my computer if my Elgato was anywhere in the PS3's video chain. I've got an HDMI switcher in my setup, and I doubt that would've done much to the HDCP situation with my PS3 on its own. Upon unboxing the splitter, I was surprised that the device was a bit heftier than I had initially expected, which was promising. All you get in the small package is the splitter itself and its power adapter, and so you'll have to supply your own output HDMI cable. Setting the splitter up with my PS3 was simple enough. I first moved the output end of the PS3's HDMI cable into the splitter's input port, and then I grabbed a spare HDMI cable I had on hand and got both ends plugged into the splitter's "Output 1" port and one of my HDMI switcher's input ports respectively. During my testing, I noticed that my recorded footage had an AWFUL screeching noise in place of the game audio. In an attempt to troubleshoot the issue, I re-ran the PS3's automatic audio setup on HDMI, which seemed to fix the issue by only picking out the default "Linear PCM 2 Ch. 44.1kHz" and "Linear PCM 2 Ch. 48kHz" options that you can't untick if I recall correctly. If the automatic audio setup doesn't pick those for whatever reason, make sure those are the only options picked. I would like to make it clear that using this splitter with a PS3 will limit your available audio settings through HDMI to the default "Linear PCM 2 Ch. 44.1kHz" and "Linear PCM 2 Ch. 48kHz" options, so I'd suggest any audiophiles to keep that in mind if that's something you're worried about. I was using OBS Studio for my recordings, and I'd recommend looking up how to adjust the program's audio sampling rate. OBS's setting should match with the sampling rate on the other audio devices in your PC's recording setup to minimize lag when you have OBS output sound from your capture device. However, I'd like to clarify that the audio in recordings don't seem to suffer from any sort of lag problem. Unfortunately, you'll lose HDMI-CEC or "Control for HDMI" functionality on Slim and Super Slim PS3 systems when using this splitter with those systems, since it explicitly doesn't support that as mentioned in the product description. Lastly, I've seen suggestions to use the splitter's 2nd output port for PS3 HDCP stripping purposes, but I'd like to note that using the 1st output port has been working fine for me personally.

I bought this device because I often capture or livestream different gaming consoles like Xbox, PS4 and including the PS3 and PlayStation Vita TV. The PlayStation 3 / VitaTV both have an HDCP block which stops capture devices from capturing ANYTHING from the PS3's, and PSVitaTV's HDMI slot. So you WILL need an HDMI Splitter like this one. This device came with the 1x2 HDMI Mini Splitter, a power cable, and a User Manual. I don't think it came with an HDMI cable, I'm not too sure. This device has 1 HDMI input and 2 HDMI Output slots. and 1 power supply port. The 1 HDMI input slot is for connecting the device you want to capture like the PS3 or PSVitaTV. The 2 HDMI output slots 1 and 2 are for (Like I do) Connecting a TV (1) and a Capture device (2). What I like about this device is that there are also 3 red lights indicating that a signal is live (connected to) each of the HDMI slots. I know that these things can burn out from over use or always be connected, so I make a habit of disconnecting the power cable when I am done with the device to avoid over use of it. I've had this device since October 13th 2015 up until now December 13th 2015. It's been working flawlessly since purchase. (Edited as of Nov 2025. Device is still going strong.) Downsides: The only problem I had or some may have is that There is only 1 slot for connecting multiple consoles into 1 HDMI slot for.. say a TV. But it's not a HDMI Switch Splitter so I can't really complain or even argue with it. This is mostly used for connecting 1 device to capture and also use with your TV to watch as you capture with another device. OR for those in some cases who want to have the image from one device being split to 2 different display (TV/Monitors). This device will not make some thing like a PC support 2 monitors to have dual monitor support. Unless you wanted to have dual monitors that just show the exact same screen. Overall: This device has been a GREAT help with my gaming and sharing experience It does exactly what it says and it works very great. ''''' Attention: If you purchase any of these devises be SURE to not keep them plugged in all the time. Disconnect the power when not in use. So you are not overheating the device. Extend the life period by DISCONNECTING WHEN NOT IN USE. Constantly plugged in may cause device to heat up.

Works like a charm! I connected it to my Apple TV 3 and then to my Hauppauge - HD PVR 2 (Gaming Edition) and my Mac then brought up the Apple TV and tried all the services I subscribe to. It works. Now I can save my favorites that always go away. There was one show I used to LOVE that vanished from the universe for more than 10 years, only to resurface recently on that service that starts with an H. Now I can archive copies of my long lost favorite so I can enjoy it in my golden years and share with my grand daughter when she gets older. :) The only problem I really had is that sometimes the TV that I was monitoring on would go black and a stupid message of "NOT SUPPORT!" would show up on it. Despite that the other line feeding the Hauppauge kept running without interruption. I think it was sending a weird video signal to the TV for some crazy resolution and that was making it go full stupid. Another problem, but I think this was more with the Hauppauge, is that if you hit record first then hit play on (any service) the audio goes really, really wrong and makes a very loud buzzing noise. You have to abort the recording and start over. Through trial and error I found that you hit play first and then watch the little progress wheel, let it spin a few times, like 2-3 seconds then hit record on the Hauppauge menu then as soon as you see that it's capturing hit preview and you can then watch/listen to the output of the recording to verify that it's going right. This may be a Mac only issue, I can't say about windows as I don't use M$ at all. YMMV.. As for heat, it does not get hot at all. It's very mildly warm, just enough that you can tell that it's powered up, just barely warm. I like it enough that I'm going to buy two more just to have spares in case this one dies or these things become rare. Money well spent and I will be buying additional units. Very happy. :) Update: I bought a Roku 4 and wired this gadget inline in addition to a 3x1 HDMI switch and my Hauppauge. I tried everything on the Roku and I am able to simultaneously view and capture audio/video into my Mac. I drew a very crude diagram (attached below) of how I hooked things up. This gives me pretty much infinite possibilities. It works. No fuss, no muss, it just works. I can't imagine why other people are having problems. Maybe they should get a woman to hook things up for them.. :D

So I occasionally like to record myself playing Android games. I bought myself a capture card (Game Capture HD) which doesn't naively support Android thanks to HDCP. When connected, it provides a totally black screen. Before this I was using an HDFury 2 clone that allowed me to connect my phone to the box which then converted the signal to component (thus, stripping it of HDCP). That was then converted again back to HDMI, then run through the capture card. As you can imagine, the cables alone were a mess to behold. I bought this based on the reviews that it does, in fact, strip HDCP and allow me to record my device on my computer without the use of a bunch of nonsense converters. Here are my pros and cons. Pros 1. It works. Full HD signal. In 10 minutes of testing it had a frame drop once but I suspect that's my device's fault or the capture card's fault because it used to do that with the component cables too. 2. It's small. Doesn't take up that much desk space (not nearly as much as old set up). 3. It's hot a little heft to it. It feels well constructed and heavy for its size. I feel like I got a piece of equipment and not some fragile toy. 4. Clear instructions, easy to use. Cons 1. I wish the power cable were longer. Overall, I would recommend this for those whose use cases are similar to mine. If you're using this to stream Android games or PS3/4 games then this is what I would recommend. Based on reviews, I don't think I would use this constantly. It does get a little warm but I only ever use it 10-20 minutes at a time so it's no big deal for me. For what I need it for, it's perfect. I'll update again if it ever breaks but otherwise it seems to be a fairly straightforward and working product.

So...I had for some reason thought this might send more of a raw audio signal to the streaming PC, so that I could control volume better, but after I plugged it in I realized the source will always be my PC's volume. See, now and then I like to stream with speakers instead of headphones. And windows volume affects the volume that my streaming PC receives, so if I'm adjusting it, recordings and streaming volume will be messed up. So my new solution is going to be an inline volume controller so I can control my PC volume with a device instead of the volume keys. I'll leave windows volume high and control speaker volume with the inline adapter that will only be plugged to the speakers. Honestly I can't tell much of a difference between cloning my display in Nvidia control panel and this but the one benefit of this is I don't have to send my audio over NDI to the streaming PC. And it seems to refresh quicker than NDI did. At first I tried a display port to HDMI cable but could not get a signal. Had to use an HDMI to HDMI cable. Device only comes with power adapter, no HDMI cables. Plan accordingly. (1 from source, and 2 outputs). Lastly, I am using this with a ugreen USB to HDMI capture adapter on a MicroPC utilizing Intel quicksync in OBS and it's basically flawless. It's a wonderful setup. I use NDI to send my microphone from gaming PC to streaming PC so both sides can hear it. When I use headphones I have to additionally use NDI to send my headphones amplifier audio to the streaming PC.