Cold Steel 90TH Trail Hawk American Hickory Handle, One Size (Package May Vary)

The Trail Hawk arrived packaged well. Upon inspection I realized the head had been put on backwards. The eye of the head is actually egg shaped, not oval. The handle is egg shaped as well. I removed and ditched the set screw and swapped the head around. I have done some preliminary sanding of the handle and the head fits more snugly and no longer requires a set screw. The hickory handle seems nice and solid. It measures a full 22". The head is 7" from poll to bevel. I will update this review and add photos as I customize and use the hawk for various duties. This is going to be a fun project! I am completely pleased with this product and will be ordering more versions. Aside from the inept assembly this is an outstanding product. Order one! Update, six months after receiving: I have used my Trail Hawk countless times. I have processed wood, pounded tent stakes into hard earth, done some rough carving and even tested it with processing game. It has performed nicely. I still carry my Forest Axe on longer excursions, but the tomahawk has replaced it and a few other tools in my pack for lightweight or minimalist ventures. I have sanded and re-contoured the handle, as well as filed the eye of the head for a nearly perfect fit. I stripped the paint off of the head and at first tried to force a patina with mustard. It didn't take hardly at all. Right before applying a black oxide finish (rust-bluing), I polished the entire head. I as well slightly re-profiled the poll. With the application of mustard to the smooth, almost mirror finish steel the patina took beautifully. After several coats and a few hours I took the head back to the bench and re-polished the poll and the bevel and ran it over the water stones until it was shaving sharp. The handle got a nice coat of dark walnut stain and some Algonquin designs with a wood burner tip. I now have a beautiful tomahawk that if sold in this condition would be priced above a hundred dollars. It out performed my expectations and I regard it as an essential item when heading outdoors, even for a day-hike. You simply cannot go wrong with this product, especially at this price point!

*UPDATE* I’ve throw a lot more than the past me, and this is still a great hawk. I’m still on my first handle, although the key to not breaking handles is not missing. I’ve got other throwing axes to judge against now, and this is still a solid thrower. Just not super pretty *ORGINAL REVIEW* I bought the Cold Steel Norse Hawk as well as the Cold Steel Trail Hawk at the same time. Both of these were my first tomahawks ever, and I don't have that much tomahawk experience, or any experience with other brands of tomahawks to compare to. With that said, here is what I think: First Impression: This hawk looks okay, quality wise, but the edge was VERY DULL. The blade bounced off the stump on my first throw. I had to file it, but it did sharpen to a good edge (good enough for tomahawking). Biggest Flaw: This hawk (maybe all Cold Steel hawks) uses a set screw to tighten the axe head to the handle. Once you throw this hawk, depending on how it lands, that screw will scar up the handle as the axe head comes off. I would appreciate a friction fit much better. These are my first tomahawks, so I'm not sure how many other hawks are like this. The screw really gouges the handle though. How do they work: I am a novice at tomahawking, but I can sink this hawk into my stump target from three spins away, which I'd say is about 25 foot. It feels really natural to throw, and I pretty much started sinking this thing into the wood straight away. The handle feels a little long (I don't know for sure, because I have no experience to reference), but I've just been choking up when I throw, and that works great. I've probably thrown about 100 times, and I've only missed on a handful, mostly from the "three spin" distance. I'm not sure how good I am at throwing tomahawks, but I can say that these definitely work, anyone who knows how to tomahawk should be able to use these no problem, and if you can't make it work, then it's probably you, not the hawk. I think these would be good for any beginner. They're priced low, and they work. They would work better if you custom fitted the handle and didn't use the set screw, and sharpening the axe is probably a must. I'm going to get a nicer version when I get better, but these seem great to learn on.

For the money this Tomahawk is a fantastic price. But for the money, you are getting a small project- not a finished tomahawk. You will need to -AT MINIMUM- regrind the bevel and sharpen the edge. Here is what I did, and here is what I recommend: I completely refinished the entire tomahawk. First, I stripped the cheap painted coating from the metal tomahawk head using a grinding wheel and flapper discs. Afterwards, I polished it progressively from 100, all the way to 600 grit polish on a wheel. (You can easily polish with a rag and an orbital sander instead- the wheel is easier and works better. Harbor freight has them for less than 100$). Once the metal head was polished, I chose to rust blue the head. Rust bluing is the easiest and most durable form of bluing aside from charcoal bluing. Since charcoal bluing is insanely hard to do and the necessary materials are unobtanium for normal folk like myself, I went with rust bluing. To rust blue any carbon metal (not aluminum or stainless steel) you clean it and degrease with mineral spirits or naphtha, and then put a light acid such as a vinegar salt solution or salt and hydrogen peroxide in a can or tub, and use a coat hanger to suspend the axe head in the solution. They make premade solution that you can buy as well. Honestly though, the homemade stuff works just as well in the correct amounts. Just look up rust bluing solutions. You can YouTube this and find many videos. Let the metal rust until it turns barely orange-yellow. Then boil the metal in distilled water in a pot that you do not care about for 20 minutes. Let stand until cool enough to touch. Buff lightly with very fine steel wool (also degreased beforehand). Repeat this process as many times as needed until you like the blued finish. I only did 3 separate chemical baths and boils. The resulting finish will give you the most durable bluing you can achieve. It will be better than most factory knives and firearms you see nowadays. It will be hard to scratch, it will be VERY rust resistant, and it will look absolutely amazing. If everything is done right, (and depending on the number of chemical baths and boils) this tomahawk head should be a dark, cobalt blue- to almost light navy. After bluing, do your final re-sharpen. Bluing will dull the blade, so grind the bevel, then blue, then fine sharpen. This process is far superior to cold blue. Cold blue is an additive that sits on top of the metal. But with rust bluing, the actual surface of the metal itself is what is changing and becoming the protective layer. This is insanely durable and far superior to cold bluing. Disclaimer- this is a process that involves acids and chemicals so wear proper PPE such as goggles and gloves etc. For the handle, I sanded the entire thing down and burned the ends with a torch. I stained it with a dark espresso stain from minwax. I put two coats of boiled lindseed oil on it after the stain had dried for two days. This will help keep the handle from shrinking in the winter and subsequently keep the head tight on the handle shaft. I threw away the set screw. If you do all this right, this will be a tension fit and you will never need it. With the work I have done, I have left this hawk in the bed of my truck, and it has not rusted. It has split kindling and absolutely obliterated many small branches and limbs with ease. The edge lasts between sharpenings and I am not stressed when I forget my sharpening stones while camping or hunting. Do yourself a favor- if you don’t do anything else, get a KME sharpening kit and at the very least, regrind the bevel and get a good professional, level edge on this hawk. If you only do one thing, do that. It will be night and day in terms of the usability for this tool. As far as tacticool factor, I have had many people look at and handle this hawk while camping or hunting and then they go and buy one the next week. Well worth the small investment. All photos are from during the bluing process, including a test fit half way through on the handle. For less than 30$ I highly recommend.

Good hawk. I use this to blaze trails for marking boundary lines. Out of the box this thing in my opinion will not be functionally sturdy. It has a set screw to hold the head on and it does not fit tight to the shaft. Here's what I did to make a awesome hawk and it will take the abuse. 1.) remove the head 2.) sand the handle were the head slides on not to much just sand down enough on the high spots at the top that keeps the head from sliding off the the thick end. 3.) after sanding the handle to your liking stick the wood handle in the freezer for a few hours. 4.) remove the paint from the head with a paint stripper and if you have any burrs in the eye lightly sand or file them out 5.) after your handle has been in the freezer for a few hours, heat the head up in the oven at 200 degrees my oven is a bit off so I turned up to 220 degrees for 30-35 minutes 6.) after the head is heated and the handle is froze its ready take the handle from the freezer and place the heated head on and tap it on firmly I used the old set screw mark in the handle for a marking point after lining up the old set screw hole in the head with the mark on the handle I tapped mine just over that mark. Then I set it out in the garage to cool off. Now I have a really great hawk that is very sturdy and chops many branches and is light enough to travel many of miles while walking and marking lines. Now the head fits firmly and won't slide down and no need for a set screw that means no carting around Allen wrenches to remove the handle if it breaks in the field. My opinion is Over all for the price it's well worth it. I will purchase another for a spare. It may not be for everyone, but if your handy its a good price.

before i talk about the good (and trust me, there's a lot), let's talk about the work that goes into making these 5 star hawks. firstly, with the edge that came on it it would cause more blunt force trauma than lacerations. the handle is about 4 inches too long, and is finished with a lacquer that would cause ocular cancer. oh yeah, thats basically all the bad. now the good. the wood handle, though atrocious, is SOLID. when i went to saw it, it took an ungodly amount of time with a hand saw to even cut off what i wanted. i tried to reshape it afterwards and almost gave up. this wood is as solid as can be, if you manage to snap it you're either stupid or doing it on purpose. next, the head. mine came with a beautiful 'forged' look that gave it character and aesthetic appeal. the edge (if you want to call it that) was basically redone and applied by me. i used a file until my fingers fell off, then ran it on a sharpening stone and rejoiced when i realized it was chopping better than most of my tools with only 3/4ths of the weight and all with a 100% higher cool factor. the hammer head is useful too. i use this tomahawk for mainly bushcraft, but i also throw it quite a bit. im absolutely horrendous at throwing and there were many times when it should have broken but instead just left a small mark or indent in the wood. the head is still sharp after splitting 5-6 inch logs like a fiend, throwing it at everything and leaving it chopped into a stump for nearly 3 days in the rain. overall this thing is a steal and i would recommend it to literally everyone, including your grandmother. mine thinks its cool.

I like all forms of axe. This is a good hawk. Good wood, great metal in axe head, historical design. EdgesSharp...but not razor. Baked on and laqoured finish. Head and wood can be sanded, sharpened and adapted. These hawks are perfect as is..... or as a project. Take your pick. Just make sure you use a hawk as it's intended purpose. And the history of the hawk itself is really an recycled sailing tool. So it's kinda a custom tool/weapon of former sailors. Historically..... The tomahawk was formerly a "boarding axe" from ships during "the age of sail" . These "boarding axes" had a rear spike chopped down and the 3-4ft shaft shortened to a "hatchet" size. Normally because sailors returning to land have no need for extra pieces. These chopped variants were often given to natives and traded. And that's where the word "tomahawk" and "trade axe" comes in. Sooooo the concept of a tomahawk or "trade axe" as they were more often called , is actually a recycled boarding axe that was used by former sailors on land to do house chores and protect them during life. Since they used it for years as sailors it was muscle memory. This cold steel hawk is exactly the same concept, as these "trade hawks" so often used in the French, Caribbean, and American colonies during the "age of sail" (1500-1800). Its purpose is to have an easily removable head for smaller delicate chores such as whittling, sinyew scraping, meat cutting, etc. But placed on the handle it becomes a hammer and axe very quickly. With an easily replaced handle, if you need to carve one on excursion in the bush. Cold steel did an excellent job with the axe. And the wood. However the axes have different stickers, but cold steel hires these guys to make them. So no worries there. Some of the grain on the axe handle was off... but not terrible. Nothing thats gonna last 20 years but maybe 8-10. And really thats plenty more than most will use it. And some of the heads were near the top of the shaft too much. However not a big deal. It had a light shellac sanded off with 120 grit in about 2 mins per shaft. I coated in linseed oil like my logging axes and let them dry for a week. Good heads, chops and sharpens well. Bought 3 more this week at my local shop. Great tools!!!!

Needs work but definitely worth it. Please stop assembling these, you guys are not doing a good job of that.

Hear me out, I've been using Amazon for years and I've bought hundreds of items. In all that time I have only left reviews on maybe 5-10 items. I only leave reviews when I am truly truly disappointed (to warn others) or truly truly impressed. I love this thing. This is a very cool throwing axe, and in addition to that an utility axe. I know it's not advertised as an utility axe, and I'm guessing the company would advise against using it as a utility axe just so that they don't have to deal with it when you break it using it for something it wasn't designed for. That being said, it is an axe and it works as an axe. First of all, I've thrown axes before. I am not very good, and if I were to ever enter a competition I would wind up dead last. That being said, I have thrown them before, know the basic concept and technique, and have had some successes. From what I know as an amateur axe thrower, this thing feels good in the hand, has a pretty good construction for the size and cost, and holds up to abuse well. I know that because again I am an amateur. I've had it hit my target (a hardwood tree) from some pretty hard throws at nearly every angle (top, bottom, side, halfway through a turn, hammer side, etc.). I've only had a few hits with the axe blade directly on target, but when I do it almost always sticks in and sticks in deep. I've also found that the thing is pretty accurate. You could say that that is because of my own accuracy, but again I am an amateur. Rather I think the balance of this axe is so good that an amateur can hit their target 100% of the time (I drew a faint silhoutte of a human of the same height as me on the tree. Even when I miss with the axe blade, and hit the tree with a different part of the weapon's body it almost always hits the spot I was aiming for, whether that be a small target like the head or dead center of the chest). In addition to being a throwing axe, I have been using this as an utility axe, both blade side and hammer side. The thing is shorter than a full-size axe but longer then a camp axe/hatchet. While my hatchet has more weight, this item has more leverage. Once again it also sticks in very deep because it appears to be very sharp. A quick note on that sharpness, in the three weeks I've had it I have not noticed it dulling at all... in fact it even seems sharper than when it began. Anyway, this ability to stick deep has allowed me to use the axe as a handle. Slam it deep into a log and then drag or even lift if the log is not too heavy. I've used the hammer side for nailing things, and also in combination with a splitting wedge (though a sledgehammer no doubt works better with the wedge, this item works to a degree as well). It is also good for chopping and splitting small things (I have chopped quite a few long and thick branches, maybe as thick as an upper arm, into firewood length pieces), stripping bark from living or dead trees or even from firewood, and doing small chopping jobs like creating kindling. Finally, in a use I know the manufacturer would definitely not condone, the thing works great as a fire poker. The wood I was chopping was of course for a fire pit I have and frequently use. I was of course afraid the first few times to use it as a fire poker, but I found out that it holds up very well in these extremely hot conditions. The wooden handle in fact has not burned once yet, despite being a wooden object continually poked near extremely hot embers. The fact that it can stick into and be used to drag or move wood also makes it great for moving large logs in the fire. The only thing I've noticed is that the black finish (remember, this axe is made out of silvery shiney steel, and the head is black not because of the metal but because of the finish put on the metal) is beginning to be stripped away by the heat, and a lot of the axe is beginning to be covered with charcoal and ash (from the fire, once again it itself is not burning for whatever reason). The axhead is becoming slightly loose, but this might be from the fire or from the throwing. Again this is a relatively cheap item, and I've been doing both the action this item is designed for (throwing) and chopping/fire poking pretty evenly. Either way, when this thing does start to break and fall apart, I am definitely going to buy another. I love this thing. Highly recommended.

Genial y muy manejero. El peso es muy contenido teniendo en cuenta la herramienta que es, corte y golpeó. O.k.

Kam wie erwartet stumpf an, Anschliff aber symmetrisch, also leicht auf Arbeitsschärfe zu bringen. Kurz mit der Feile und Sandpapier die scharfen Kanten am Auge abgerundet, den Stil ca. 10cm eingekürzt, abgeschmirgelt und eingeölt und das Blatt geschliffen, schon hat man ein wunderbares Arbeitsgerät für Outdoor und Camping. Als Hammer wie auch als Beil für Anmachholz gut zu gebrauchen. Macht im Prinzip alles für was einem das Campingmesser zu schade ist. Wer ca. 1 Stunde Nachbearbeitung nicht scheut, wenn man es nicht noch aufhübschen will, sondern "nur" ein Werkzeug sucht, ist hier gut beraten zuzugreifen.

Awesome tool. I say tool because it is a multipurpose tool. Can chop, hammer, throw it, shave, split small timbers. The long handle gives excellent leverage like a framing hammer so you can make fast powerful blows for such a lightweight tool. It is excellent for back country camping because it is so lightweight. It take a long time to get through a thick tree but it’s not a felling axe. I can swing it one handed for a long time before tiring. I’ve owned it for several years and put it through the ringer. Still works great. Not sure what wood the handle is made from - maybe ash? Regardless it is very strong no issues. Handle is oval in section with no bends which I really like I can slide my hand quickly to choke up on it or drop it to the very end for maximum leverage and speedy swings. Only issue I’ve had is that I wasn’t paying attention to the fact it has a set screw to lock the handle to the head. At some point the handle had been forced down from the head - maybe me tightening it and caused the set screw to go on an angle on the inside of head. Problem is it’s still grabbing some thread so I can’t back it out. Will need to drill out someday if the handle loosens. Will leave it as is. I see complaints about quality control but it is a low cost item how much can you expect. It has a tough handle, tough head. I threw this thing so many times and nothing happened other than some knicks on cutting edge which is expected when it bounces off the target and hits a rock. Cold steel makes excellent tools that are more for a purpose than pretty looks. And the cost reflects that. For me the first most important thing is performance and dependability and I get that for very low cost in this tomahawk.

it came very dull, the eye and the handle needed lots of sanding. i expected these things. so far it looks like a great piece of gear. have yet to test it and i am still trying to sharpen it. but im sure its gonna be great especially for the price wen i am finished making it my own.

Acabados muy bastos. Madera muy astillada y sin tratar, requiere lijado casi obligatorio. Por otro lado los materiales son buenos, la madera resistente y mejor mucho a nada que se trate y el acero es duro y facil de afilar.