Xbox One Joystick

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After receiving these, and watching multiple videos on removing and installing, I was able to fix the drifting issue from my controller that came with my Xbox Series X. It was past warranty, so I figured for the price, I would go ahead and try to fix it myself. It is not as simple as you would expect, so make sure you have some experience desoldering and soldering before attempting this. You want to make sure you have the correct tools for this due to how hard the original solder is on the board. After I got them mounted correctly and tested, they have been working great since. If you do not have experience with soldering, or the correct equipment, I would suggest taking these to a qualified electronic repair shop to save some money bringing in your own parts instead of paying an extra charge for the parts they will have to order.

Four star is my fault for not understanding I needed more tools to complete the replacement. I thought this kit was everything I needed to fix the joysticks. You DO NEED soldering tools and equipment, I did not know this. My fault completely but i'll be returning the kit because its a job outside my ability. The other reviews look good but its not for me.

The kit comes with enough parts to repair three controllers and it also includes the tools needed to disassemble the controller. (My photo only shows two potentiometers because I took it after using the other 4 pots.) There’s also a link to a YouTube tutorial, but I didn’t use that.These joysticks worked great as a replacement for model 1914 and 1708 wireless Xbox controllers. It’s a well-known issue that the controllers will experience stick drift over time as the carbon wears out on the original joystick potentiometers. The only solution is to replace them or replace the entire controller. I’ve got 5 controllers that my family uses so I wanted to try fixing instead of replacing. If you don’t have the proper soldering and de-soldering equipment, then you won’t be able to execute the repair. Even with the right equipment, it’s not a trivial task so when these finally wear out - and they will, I’ll probably go with aftermarket controllers that use Hall effect sensors instead of these ALPS potentiometers.

The media could not be loaded. These were better than I expected, I installed these and required zero calibration or anything afterwards. Excellent company.

Had these professionally replaced into a Xbox Elite controller and they developed stick drift within 1 week.

My Xbox One controller was driving me crazy with drift on the left joystick. But to buy a new one? Being a cheapskate I opted for SOSS Analog Joystick Repair Kit. Why 3 stars? Because I could not find a path to guarantee that it could be installed and work as it should. I should say that I had the tools, pencil soldering iron, Superwick, multimeter, and a lot of time on my hands.I watched the SOSS videos. Seems to me that their 'calibration' is just a way to slightly turn the joystick tab so the potentiometer thinks it is centered when in fact the rod is slightly off-center. That's fine, except that after installation my problem was still extreme drift, not centering (drifting when calibration software showed inside deadzone). Their video said nothing about correcting for drift. Another video (and by inference, the 'old' SOSS calibration video) implied that the resistance between the left side and the right side of each potentiometer should be in balance. Made sense, but I tested all 12 of the potentiometers provided in the kit and only a couple came anywhere close to being matched (they differed by about 0.3K ohms left and right). I used those, being the hopeful sort.Installed trial and error, and it worked to perfection! Until... Extreme drift again (after an hour of play). This time I thought the joystick felt a bit more resistant to movement than the OEM stick, so I lubricated it (a touch of silicon spray) in the belief that it was not returning to true center. That seemed to do the trick, but it still feels fragile. Every once in awhile it will still start drifting again, and I have to rotate it and utter magic incantations until it straightens out.I should say that for simplicity's sake I used Steam calibration. When it works the deadzone is very small. When it does not work (drifting) even a quite large deadzone (over the 50% mark on the bar) does not solve it.So, the SOSS calibration only seems to go after centering, and it did not seem as sensitive to resistance balancing on each potentiometer as some have said. I can't give you an ironclad recipe for getting this thing to work except patience and trial and error.

Replaced stick on one of our 4 new controllers since Microsoft cheaped out on quality same as playstation (they give you a 3 month warranty so YEAH they know their QC for these is terrible - been like that since the XBox One days). Followed the video that maker provided and was able to get this installed and controller works perfectly now. As is called out - you need a Soldering iron, solder sucker and solder as well as a little finesse to get this done (I followed the cut up the old stick and remove in pieces method which worked great)