Helicoil 5334-14 Save-A-Thread Thread Repair Kit M14 x 1.25

This was used of 2005 Ford F150 with 4.6L engine. It worked perfectly for the blown out spark plug #3. Make sure piston is at bottom dead center. To determine this, I used a big plastic plug that kinda stuck in the spark plug tube and had a tiny bit of a seal. I crawled under truck and turned engine over for what felt like a lifetime, because it is hard to get to the crank bolt with the suspension and shroud...but it is possible. When the engine has both valves closed and the piston is at bottom ready to go up, that plug will pop out loudly. The use of the tap is easy. Fill the end of the grooves of the tap with grease to catch metal shavings. Go in 4.5 turns, take it out and clean tap. go in 4.5 new turns, take out and clean. Wash rinse repeat. Do not do excess turns or more metal will fall into cylinders. When done, use compressed air to blow out. I sprayed a little carb cleaner to get rid of grease. I used the longest thread insert. I gently and lightly coated the new spark plug with antiseize compound, and I used permatex 27200 red threadlocker on the outside of the insert. I very gently screwed this whole thing in the cylinder. I was patient and waited 45 minutes before starting. It has held up a month now. I recommend this over the $100's people say you need to spend on super duper tools. I just do not recommend people buy a old Ford truck with one of these motors! The inconvenience was horrendous, and the research was tough. I only saw a review here on Amazon that explained it like I am. So I am also sharing the process. Takes about hour and a half constantly getting up and down on truck. Maybe 12 times to clear hole, then to reassemble.

Honestly it worked great! Very easy to use! Just a ratchet and a bit of time! Heck I didn't even take the head of the engine off, just the exhaust muffler to get better access to the bore for cleanup. Just made sure I was able to get every last bit of metal shaving out (For the record I did coat the tap with grease to minimize shavings falling into the bore, but obviously it's not going to get it all). When I finished with the boring/tapping step, and cleaning up the area, all that was left was to put in one of the collars provided! There are 3 different sizes, and if you're fixing a chainsaw, you'll want to use the one smallest in length. Before putting in the collar, I coated the outside of it with a good coat of RTV (I used Permatex's ULTRA Grey). I then screwed the collar in until it was just BELOW flush with the surface, making sure that the "teeth" part of the collar were facing up/out! After seated, I gave it a good couple taps with the provided die using a hammer to expand those teeth on the collar and bite into the threads for a good, solid fit that wouldn't back out anytime soon! So far there hasn't been any troubles with it! It's holding very well! If you've got a stripped spark plug hole, this is a great solution! Definitely recommend!

We used the Helicoil Save-A-Thread M14x1.25 to do an "over the fender" repair of the spark plug thread on a 2003 Ford Expedition 5.4L V-8 with a blown spark plug. I thought I might have to buy a Time-Sert kit, but found the Helicoil version at a much lower price. The Helicoil worked very well, even though the plug was way at the back in a difficult spot under the fuel rail. The two step tap design was very easy to use and reamed and cut the larger threads no problem. I had read a few tips that really helped out: 1) load up the flutes in the tap with grease to catch the thread cuttings and also it allows you to see progress if you back out the tap a few times during the process, 2) start the engine up after tapping without the spark plug - it appeared to blowout some very fine aluminum cuttings that weren't caught by the grease and 3) thread the insert on to the sparkplug and then thread the plug into the newly tapped hole. I wasn't concerned about setting the insert, since I figured I wasn't going to be changing the plug again for a long time, and it would be no big problem if the insert came out with the plug. The first set of plugs looked great after 115K miles so I figured I've got another 100K on the new plug. Some people also recommended manually advancing the engine to the point where both valves were closed for that cylinder and also using a vacuum to suck out any shavings, but I thought the grease worked well enough to not bother with the vacuum approach. The ignition coil for that plug had to be replaced because it got broken when the plug blew out, but beyond replacing that, the engine was running great with just a few hours work.

I had accidentally stripped out the threads in my motor in 2 cylinders. I would try to screw in the spark plug and it would never tighten down. This kit worked perfectly. There were no directions so I'll share what I did 1, grap the spark plug you plan on using and find the correct length insert that covers all threads on the spark plug 2, screw insert onto spark plug, nit tight just snug, 3, grab the tap/reamer and slop a lot of grease on the tap, this will grab the chunks of metal shavings and stop it from falling inside 3, start the tap/reamer by hand then use a reached to screw it in, keep going until it stops then pull it out 3. Spray some brake cleaner into the newly cut threads to prep for thread sealant 4. With the insert installed on the spark plug with the studded side facing up ( towards the outside of engine) apply thread sealant to fully cover threads. 5, install spark plug until it stops then your good to go. I recommend blowing out the inside of the cylinder with compressed air to remove any shavings that the grease didn't catch. Let sealant dry for 24 hours or per manufacturer spec

Insofar as the inserts themselves go and the idea itself - 5 Stars. Tool works well and repairs are easily done. The one piece inserts are a huge improvement over standard Heli-Coil type thread inserts. Just a couple of caveats though. First, the cutting tool has no stop. On some heads, it may be possible to thread past the bottom of the stock threads and the tap ends up in the combustion chamber itself which is not good at all. On most cam in block heads you can see the tap and monitor fairly easily. On modern 4 valve per cylinder engines with a deeply recessed spark plug this is problematical. I used a bore scope to monitor progress, stopping every little bit and checking progress with the camera. If it does drop into the combustion chamber it may come off your 3/8 drive extension when you try to back it out to retrieve it as it does not lock onto the tap, just the standard ball detent. More minor is the staking tool they supply - again too short for recessed plugs. No way to lock onto it - I drilled and tapped the top to add a threaded extension to solve this issue. Bottom line is this is a great tool - just be careful to not go too far with you cutting!

This product fixed a spark plug that shot out of our 2007 Honda Odyssey. It did exactly what it is supposed to do. I was able to start it by hand and then put a socket wrench on it. I put grease on it to collect the shavings and turned it till it wouldn’t turn anymore. I put the new threaded insert on a spark plug with red RTV sealant on the outside of the insert. I then installed it in the engine. I let it sit for 24hrs and prayed. It cranked the next day and has run fine since. Now I just have to deal with the catalytic converter. Good luck to y’all.

What can I say about this tool! $30+ versus $900+?? No brainer. I repaired my 2004 F-150 (4.6L v8) with a little time and patience!! 6000+ miles and still rolling strong! Make sure you use PLENTY of grease on the tap, and cut the treads SLOWLY, going back and forth while cleaning the tap every 2 or 3 rotations. A cheap phone scope works great for knowing how far to screw in the insert also! Using RED permanent Lock-tite and allowing the repair to sit 24 hours to set the glue was all that was needed to complete my DIY repair. Word of advise, get a long LOCKING extension for for socket set. It gives you additional peace of mind while starting the cutting phase. Make sure your tap is STRAIGHT and CENTERED before cutting, you only get ONE CHANCE!! Just don't rush and make sure to blow out the cylinder when you're done (leave the plug out and crank the engine to use compression to blow out any debris), DON'T TRY TO START WITH THE PLUG OUT!! Peace of cake... Good luck!

Pay a little more for a high quality product. Worked excellent on lawn mower engine.