X6 2.4Ghz 6 Channel RC Transmitter with Gyro Inside Receiver Low Power Alarm and Out of Control Protections Radio Controller for Remote Car/Boat/Tank Mixed Mode Remote Controller

Great

Quick summary: A terrific Surface Radio Control System. PRO: 6 channels. Interference resistant. Steering mix. Long communications range. Low price. CON: The instructions need improvement. Here's a real surprise: The DumboRC 6 channel system works like a champ! At this price I didn't expect such quality and versatility. First, there's really 6 channels: throttle, steering, channel 3 on/off, channel 4 high-medium-low, channel 5 and 6 are dials from zero to high. If you're doing any experimentation with radio control, channels 5 and 6 really come in handy for extra servos (like pointing a camera or turning a winch) I use channels 5 & 6 for tilt and lift of my RC robot forklift. Especially attractive - the transmitter has built-in steering mix. So I can control my two-motor forklift (or model tank, or dual-propeller motorboat) without adding a V-tail mixer. The DumboRC works fine for me, with great range (well beyond 200 feet), and surprising resistance to interference from wifi and camera transmitters. Both my Futaba 4PL and FlySky FS-GT5 often stutter or shut down when I use three 1.2GHz cameras (interference from harmonics); the DumboRC receiver never skipped a beat. When I first installed the receiver, I thought that it did not have a gyro. But I was wrong! The label attached to the receiver "X6F" implies that there is no gyro. But after contacting the manufacturer, I learned that they had mis-labeled the receiver. I tested the receiver, and find that yes, the receiver does have a built-in gyro. And I tested the gyro action -- it does work properly in fast-steering situations. The receiver requires voltage input on one (or more) of the six sets of servo pins -- which is to say, there is no separate power input for the receiver. Also, the button on the receiver for binding is tiny, and difficult to reach. However, the receiver and transmitter arrived from Amazon already binded (bound?), so it wasn't necessary to go through the binding procedure. I use 4 Eneloop rechargeable AA batteries in the transmitter. UPDATE 2019-Nov-6 After 2 weeks of use, I've fine-tuned the DumboRC system and it works sweetly. My previous FlySky and Futaba surface controllers have LCD displays, a multitude of adjustments, and memory for different vehicles. But neither offers the versatility of 6-channel control, steering-mix, and the simple setup of this DumboRC. This is now my first choice surface controller and receiver. Sadly, the instructions are minimal, and need improvement. Here are my instructions to myself -- I hope you find them useful: How to bind the DumboRC transmitter to the Receiver: 1: connect the receiver to power: 1a: +5 volts (red wire) goes to any middle pin 1b: -5volts (black wire) to any pin close to the receiver's edge (farthest from the antenna) 2: Turn on the transmitter. 3: To bind the receiver, find the tiny black button in the hole next to the antenna. Use a paperclip to hold the button down for 1 or 2 seconds. 3a: The green LED should blink for a few seconds while it binds to the transmitter. Then the LED should be steady. How to turn on and off the DumboRC receiver gyro: 1) connect the receiver to power. The green LED should be lit. 2) with a paperclip, push the little button next to the antenna three times in quick succession. 3) The red LED should blink and then remain on -- meaning that the gyro is activated (both red and green LEDs will be lit) 4) Again, push the button three times, and the red LED will turn off - disabling the gyro. 5) It's important that the receiver be mounted horizontally on your car -- I had mounted the receiver vertically, and did not detect any gyro action when steering. Here's how to get into settings mode (for the "upgraded" version): 1: turn off the transmitter. 2: pull the throttle/trigger all the way backwards (against the handle-stop). 3: twist the steering wheel full counterclockwise. 4: with the trigger backwards and steering ccw, turn on the power. 5: let go of the steering wheel and throttle/trigger. 6: push the Channel 3 button (below the trigger) 7: the top light should start blinking. 8: now, with the top light blinking, you can reset the neutral position of trigger and steering in 3 steps : 8a: twist the steering full cw, then full ccw, then let go 8b: pull the trigger full backwards, full forwards, then let go. 8c: turn off the power switch. You must do steps 8a, 8b, and 8c, or else your RC model may not drive backwards, or may not go forwards! How to set the direction, zero point, and sensitivity for the throttle and the steering: Open the top cover to find two slide switches, and four knobs. The left switch and 2 left knobs are for steering. The right hand switch and 2 right knobs are for throttle. Set the top left switch for either normal or reverse steering. (really, changes the direction of the steering wheel). Set the middle-left knob for the zero-point of steering (just point its arrow straight up at first). Set the lower-left knob for the steering limits (start with it pointing straight up, adjust as you please) Set the top right switch for either normal or reverse throttle (just changes what happens when you push or pull the finger-trigger). Set the middle-right knob so that your model does not move when the trigger is in the neutral position. Set the bottom-right knob to control the speed limit of the trigger. You can change between ordinary throttle-steering to mixed steering-throttle ("dual-motors" or "tank" or "v-tail"). Normal steering mode means the finger-trigger will control one servo for the speed. The steering wheel will control a second servo which turns the steering mechanism. Mixed steering mode is for a model with two motors - a one motor driving the left side of the model and motor on the right side (think of a military tank). With mixed mode, the finger-trigger controls the speed of the model, and the steering wheel controls the speed difference between the left and right motors. To change from normal to mixed steering mode, do this: 1: turn off the transmitter. 2: pull the throttle/trigger all the way forward (towards the front of the transmitter). 3: twist the steering wheel full clockwise. 4: with the trigger frontwards and steering CW, turn on the power. 4a: the LED on top should blink red-blue. 5: let go of the steering wheel and throttle/trigger. 6: pull the trigger all the way backwards (against the handle-stop) 6a: the top LED should change to solid color: 6b: if the LED is blue, then you have normal steering 6c: if the LED is red, then you have mix steering ("tank" or "v-tail") 7: set the top switches: top left switch is steering normal/reverse top right switch is throttle/trigger normal/reverse 8: set the steering & throttle Note added 2021-Aug-24 -- Still *really* happy with this! I've used this daily for almost 2 years to control my r/c forklift. It continues to work fine. I try to be gentle with it, but it's been dropped and kicked about -- still keeps working. You can run the transmitter from a USB charger (Use a USB micro cable). So I now normally have the transmitter connected to a USB power supply. I leave 4 batteries in there -- the sliding power switch just activates the batteries (if I walk away from the USB cable). Another note, added 2024-Feb-4: Last week, I stepped on the controller and broke the trigger! I bought a replacement set, and have just transplanted the trigger from the new unit to the old one. So the original transmitter and receiver are still working, and going strong! I use this pretty much every day in my home business.

Simple transmitter. Good range,so far so good. Thanks Amazon

It's very useful and good

I own three of these now. The company has proven to be responsive and supportive to all of my questions! 5 stars for customer service. And the product, itself, is awesome. The gyro works amazingly well on dirt (which is why you buy it). Turn the gyro down (or off) when you're on pavement. The radio distance is out of this world. It will definitely be farther than your stock electronics. If you're getting this for a wheeled vehicle, you will never reach its farthest distance. It's that far. It has more settings than your stock electronics, too (e.g., steering end points!). And the power/speed setting is any increment between 0-100%. So unlike many stock transmitters that only give you 75% (for beginners) and 100%), this setup gives you any setting within 0-100. If you find that your rig lost its reverse after installing this (this only happened to me once on the 5 rigs I've put these in over the years, and it was on a cheap, no-name brand ESC), don't assume you're in "race" mode. You might just have to find the exact setting for the throttle trim so that you get max power forward and some power backwards. Also note that if you add lights to your rig in channel 3, you'll need a tiny/cheap switch that runs between the esc channel 3 and your LED lights connection. You can't just plug in the lights into channel 3 and have it work (and note that that is standard for all receivers...it's not a defect). The switch can be found on Amazon for cheap. You won't find a better gyro-equipped RC transmitter/receiver at this price level or even pricier than this!