PETG Filament

Came in a mylar vac sealed package. Very robust. Didn't dry it at all, just threw it into the printer and ran a benchy to start off with and see how the stock settings in the profile from the Polymaker website worked. Flawless. Literally zero defects right out of the package. It prints fairly hot at 255C, with a bed temp of 70C, and very limited cooling. The volumetric speed is about half the newer version (non legacy), and the line speed also quite slow relative to the polymaker HF PETG. It prints beautifully with a nice glossy sheen. Not a fan of the lower speed it needs, but the results were quite good.

So far I have only used the Black PETG (apparently the old formula) I have a few colors to try. I don't have a single complaint yet. Out of the bag and straight to printing, it's been loaded on my printer for prototyping some speaker podz for over a week now and still doing good. Pros compared to other brands I've tried: - Hardly any stringing at all - Smooth prints with a nice sheen - Layer adhesion is good - Spool is neatly and tightly wound - Yet to have a tangle - Does not appear to be AS brittle The only con I can find is it does not seem to handle bridging as well as the previous brand I was using.

This review is for the Polymaker PolyLite PETG filament, Red (#de4343), October 2023 I am using the PolyLite filament to print the object in the photograph at this very moment. It is performing MUCH better than the Duramic PETG I was using for other projects. So far I have had ZERO blobs on the walls of my print and very minimal stringing at 80mm/s at 235°. In the close-up photo you can see that there was a little problem with layer adhesion in one spot, but turning the fan up to 75% fixed it immediately. You can also see blobs in the interior, but they will be hidden, so I don’t care. Printing directly on glass with a little hair spray to make sure things stay put. The print has been going for nearly 15 hours at the time of the photos. Bed temp is set at 75°, but my bed runs about 5° cool, so it’s actually at 70°. The filament is a bright, deep, and shiny RED. We will have to see how long it holds its deep color.

This is perfectly acceptable, if not above average PETG. I had no significant issues with stringing or bed adhesion on my enclosed Prusa XL, as it appeared to print decently with a moderate range of settings. My only real gripe is that it is not teal, contrary to the name. It is sky blue or cyan, somewhat de-saturated but that could also be due to the matte finish. It has just the slightest amount of green pigment, making it a fraction of a shade more green than baby blue. But I would not even call this turquoise, nor aquamarine, nor aqua.

I do not write reviews often but in the case of this filament, absolutely. I have always used Hatchbox for my PETG needs, but no longer. The filament was shipped in the normal brown Poly box but vacuum sealed in a non-reusable bag. That is ok with me because I knew when I opened the package, the hiss let me know it was sealed correctly. As always, dry out your filament, especially PETG. I let this run at 54c for 8 hours before using. This is not my first translucent filament but it has been the EASIEST to print with. Stringing is basically non-existent, adhesion is not a factor and the quality of the prints are immaculate. I have tried countless filaments over the years from all manufacturers. Poly is my go to PLA using PLA Pro or Polylite because I have never had one issue with their filaments, so why not try their PETG. Yes this comes in a cardboard roll which I am fine with. Right now I am printing this with heavy infill because I need the strength but the transparency is VERY good even with 40% infill. Printing with a larger nozzle, less infill, thicker walls, and post-processing will give you a clearer finish. Print this slower than PLA. You can also go down to .1 and REALLY slow printing for a very clear finish, but will lose strength and time printing. PETG can be a little tricky if you do not have the correct temps / retractions. Surprisingly, I print this at a lower temp than other PETG filaments. I am running a Titan Direct Drive so my retraction settings will differ from a Bowden setup. I have printed this with Marlin without issue and currently running Klipper with BETTER results. Setup: Creality CR10-v3 STOCK Bed: G10 When printing on Glass I raise 5c Cura Settings for a stronger PETG print (Currently using settings for fan ducts for Hero Me G7) .4 brass nozzle .2 layer height .4 line width 1.2 wall thickness 2 Top Surface Skin Layers Monotonic Top/Bottom Unchecked Skin in Z Gaps Unchecked Ironing Unchecked 40% infill Connect Infill Lines Unchecked Temp 235 Build Plate 80 Initial Layer Bottom Flow 108% Print Speed 40mm/s My Titan Extruder Retraction settings Enable Retraction Retract at Layer change Checked Retraction Distance .8 Retraction Speed 45mm/s Retract before outer wall Checked Limit Support Retractions Unchecked Enable Print cooling UNCHECKED <---------- With Klipper, turn off all Acceleration Control, Jerk Control, Z Hop when retracted. Take your time with the Klipper setup and go through each step in order, not skipping. If you walked through all Klipper settings, everything will print GREAT. If not, blame the user and not the tools. I skipped a couple the first time through and was so confused as to why everyone loved Klipper because my results were terrible. Impatience got me. I went through the setup again (took my time, couple days), and I am sold. I will not go back to Marlin. For a good print, everyone should make sure a couple of things are in order regardless of slicer, firmware or printer... 1. Your bed is level 2. No seriously, take the time and level your damn bed 3. Do not write bad reviews because filaments do not stick to your unlevel bed 4. ESTEPS. Tune them, per roll, not per filament. It can change from roll to roll. Also, tune your ESTEPS at the temperature you are going to print at (start a spreadsheet and keep track of settings to cut down on the time it takes when changing rolls). 5. Correct temperatures. This can also change PER ROLL and depending on how dry it is. If you hear a slight pop sound, too much moisture. 6. Bed adhesion. I have used Carborundum glass beds, thick mirrors, HomeDepot 12in mirrors and now G10. There is ONE common factor to all of them, do not touch the bed. EVER. Wash the bed with dish soap and water, then dry with a clean, lint free cloth. Glass beds would require me to clean them every few prints. G10, pfft. I just wipe it down with the blue shop roll paper towels and done. Now if I TOUCH the bed, I clean it with dish soap and water. You can also use 99.99% alcohol to wipe the beds down as well. Spend $20 and get a G10 sheet. You will not be sorry. Happy Printing!

I have used 8 different brands of PETG, all with similar results. Matte vs. Shiny is about the only differences between all of them... except this one! This one is very weird. It was well packaged in a VERY sealed vacuum bag. My work area has 2% humidity (yes, really - Arizona where the A/C extracts all of the water in the air). This PETG doesn't have an issue with moisture, it has an issue of severe stringing! I tried various temperatures from can barely extrude to deliberately too hot and the stringing never went away. It's like a spider is stuck in my print nozzle! I changed the nozzle just to make sure it didn't have a burr that was splitting the plastic or something. The other issue is that this PETG does not stick well. I use a flexible metal plate with PEI on it for the print bed and there are some PETG brands that require a LOT of force to get the parts off. This stuff will actually lift from the PEI during the print - something I have not seen in probably 10 years when we all used barbaric glue sticks and blue tape for PLA. :) The only thing I do like about this is the spool is made of fiber material that is a light color, making it is (contrast wise) to see how much filament is remaining on the spool... which is a lot because this stuff is never going to be used ever again! I really hate giving things negative reviews, and I am probably more harsh than normal because I am out of my normal go-to brands like Duramic and Novamaker (both of which are absolutely flawless), and I am now stuck waiting for new filament to arrive and I am trying to get a job done!

Polymaker has been my go-to filament for several about 5 years now. Always accurate size and colors match from batch to batch. Company also stands behind their product 100%. Use to be made in China but they now make it in USA as well. My only complaint is I have gotten a few rolls (gone through hundreds) that had the filament tangled in the middle of the roll but both times they just sent me a new roll. Now, if they could spool it like Prusaments flawless spooling (no tangles, no overlaps, no gaps, it's like military precision.

I don't understand the hype behind Polymaker. There are better cheaper options out there. The transparent is more translucent. Its subpar and its more expensive than brands that are far more transparent. This ended up being pretty stringy stuff too. I bought it for a transparent container box system, and used it for a filament enclosure as you can't see through it very well. Print was slowed way down for transparency. Roll wasn't incredibly dry either. 14%. Also this roll does not like multi color systems.

Save yourself a huge headache and avoid this filament, it clogged my extruder to the point that I had to heat a metal piece to be able to remove it form inside of the nozzle. There are some issues with this filament that others are reporting on internet as well, so be aware.

Top, wie alle polymaker/overture filamente. Allerdings sollte man wissen das "clear" nicht transparent ist - gedruckt eher wie Milchglas aus. Auch noch bei 255 Grad..

Alles wie beschrieben

The product was delivered with Vacuum seal broken, someone open the Filament bag with a knife and now it is wet and have to perform dehydration

Fungerade som förväntat, bra utskrifter trots nybörjare.