14Pcs Universal Ball Joint Tie Rods End Boot Dust Cover Rubber Replacement

found one that would replace an otherwise perfect upper control arm in my Jeep. A little stretch and it fit. While others are complaining that no rings are included i found that two wraps of thin baling wire made a perfect cinch. Given that only one of my grease boots was damage (chemically) this kit was perfect. If i was replacing pairs I would suggest buying two kits. Given that replacing the two year old control arm was about $500 i was able to save it for the cost of this kit, a little grease, and some wire.

Nice grease boots.

Good selection of sizes and types, I was able to find matches for my 2009 Mercedes S550

No available opinion on durability yet. I accidentally tore the lower ball joint boot on my gen 2.5 (2012-2015) Honda Pilot after a separate bit of suspension service. Honda offers a workshop manual procedure for changing the boot but, somewhat surprisingly, doesn't actually offer the boot as a service part. So I went hunting, and found a description with dimensions for it on a down-under website. Then started shopping with those dimensions to find one. This assortment is one of only a very few that actually shows the dimensions of each piece. Lots of boots offered in many places, including specialty heavy-duty ones for aftermarket and off-road suspension pieces, but none of them actually have dimensions listed. They failed marketing 101, with identifying the product. Meanwhile I was able to use the identified bushing from this kit. TL;DR -- Honda WSM describes the bushing as one that has a spring-wire bail holding it to the ball joint. In fact, the factory boot has a molded-in 'umbrella' washer, and the tabs towards the center lock onto the ball joint when the boot is pressed over it. I didn't want to contaminate the grease in the ball joint by grinding to remove the washer, so instead I ended up gluing the new boot to the old installed locking washer. The boot is pretty seriously compressed when installed, so I plan to leave it in there until/unless it fails. At that point the only available remedy is a new lower control arm with ball joint and a new boot. The car has less than 60k on it, so it seemed prudent to tray and recover the remaining life in the arm if possible. Would I recommend that a commercial shop try my fix? Probably not. But since I can monitor the boot and I end up doing all my own warranty rework anyway, it seems worth the risk. It's a science project really. Other vendors: Take note that adding dimensions on the descriptions pieces you sell would help us DIT'ers a LOT.

OK PRODUCT NOT AS STRONG AS A REGULAR OEM BOOT BUT DOES ITS JOB

rings not included, 1x of each size. great quality better material than oem, flawless install, held up against a 3ton vehicle, would purchase again.

Various sizes most smaller than 2 inches in diameter. I needed a lower A arm ball joint boot for a 1980 chevy pickup . Got 1 to fit but took some finagleing. Used a zip tie to secure it and 4 hands to get it to work . Have not had it on road yet but think it will do the job time will tell

These should have come with the clips that hold them in place. When placed on my Mazda 3 ball joint it seem to fit but came off when grease applied. The boot itself was a little flimsy and my confidence level is low that it will last very long. The previous boot didn't come with a metal clip/band that could be removed, the metal ring was incorporated in to the boot itself. I did use another one on my outer tie rod end and was able to use the old clip and that did work well. I would say that these are better suited for tie rod ends. I would not use them again for a ball joint.

There are many good we quality pieces in the kit. Would be great if they could put 2 of each size in the kit