Tools Hanson Screw Extractor and Drill Bit Set, 35 Piece, 11135ZR

I over torqued a small water pump bolt, Grade 8 (1/4 - 20), causing it to break, while attempting to install a new pump in my car. This set helped save me. Although strangely, the smallest left hand direction bit couldn't seem to grab to start, maybe too much cutting oil, I had an exact same size Irwin right hand direction bit (EX-1) that did. The next sized up bit and extractor in this set worked flawlessly, going slow and steady, to remove the broken bolt. I question the set's price and value, wanting to drop it a star, but it saved me from incurring tow and repair shop bills, so 5 stars it gets.

This set is amazing. I rounded off the head of an external Torx bolt in my engine. This set worked exceptionally well to remove it. Here is my process. First, I cut off the head of the bolt using a dremel. Second, I made a point in the middle of the bolt with a punch tool and a hard strike of a hammer (a heavy one works best). Alternatively, if you don’t have a punch, you can make a starter hole with the smallest drill bit in this set. Or, you can create a slot (like a flathead screwdriver slot) across the bolt with a dremel tool. That will give enough indentation for the drill bit to grab and penetrate the bolt. Third, this set has a chart on the inside cover where you match the drill bit with the bolt you’re trying to extract. Pick the correct bit and start drilling at dead center of the bolt. Make sure you drill straight because if you hit the threads, you’re screwed. Since these are left handed bits, you have to drill in reverse for it to go in. I recommend you practice on a piece of scrap wood or cardboard to see what direction you need to drill for the bit to penetrate. In short, it is reverse on your drill. To drill the bolt you’re trying to extract, I recommend pulsing your drill to make sure you are keeping the bit center and not angling it into threads. You do not need to go super deep. Once you have drilled out about 1/2 cm to 3/4 cm, then get the bolt extractor that matches the bolt size. There are two types of extractors in this set. T-type extractors and socket type. The T-type require a T-tool or vice grips to manually turn the extractor. The socket extractors (shown in my pictures) are easier to use. They require an SAE 1/2” socket attached to a 3/8” ratchet. Take the extractor of your choice and use a hammer to hammer it into the hole you made with your left hand bit. A few hard blows should suffice. Then, attach the socket (or if you used the T-extractors, use vice grips or other tool) and slowly twist in a counter clockwise direction. Once the bolt loosens, you may often remove the rest by hand. If it, keep using your tool until you can pull out the bolt. Finally, to remove the extractor from the damaged bolt, you can use two vice grips or a socket and vice grips. Twist in opposite directions to loosen. Finally these tools are Made in USA.

NOTE: I have not used the bits. But you probably aren't buying this for the bits. I have yet to break an extractor. Bits are made in Brazil, but the extractors are USA. The metal case they come in is very nice. Thought it was plastic from the image. Pleasant surprise. Let's assume the bits are just ok. If you are dealing with the occasional stuck screw or bolt, these bits will probably hold up just fine. If you are dealing with them on a daily basis, you might want to upgrade the bits or get an extractor set from Viking/Norseman or the like. Mainly because left hand bits are invaluable in removing a stuck screw. They often can break the screw loose or at least break the bond, making the actual extraction much easier. Regardless, for $20, in my opinion just the extractors are worth it. It's like getting the bits for free. As for this form of extraction, I love it. It works great for me. I haven't broken an extractor. If you go this route, use a center punch just to help line up your bit (even if you have the split ends that avoid "walking"). Then make sure you drill straight. Finally, if you are getting a lot of resistance with the extractor, make sure there is no material blocking the path of your damaged screw. If the path is clear, the extractor will not break and your screw will come right out. I don't know why nobody mentions this on the YouTube videos!! Last thing, don't try to turn them with a drill. I actually damaged the jaws on my cordless drill treating the extractor like a drill bit. Not smart, but that's how you learn. If you get a tap wrench, just note it will have to cover more than 1/2" tap size. The size of the extractors on the grip end is not the same as a tap size. The EX-5 is slightly less than the size of a 3/8" socket. Get an oversized tap wrench or just use a standard adjustable wrench.

This kit doesn't come with instructions and I have only used this kit once so far so I gave it 4 stars instead of 5. Here are instructions below from my internet researching on the subject: Got broken ford van broken exhaust manifold bolt out with this kit. The bolt broke flush with the engine block so I couldn't grab it with vice grips and it wasn't loose where I could spin it out with a pick.... Used smallest drill bit to drill through slowly about 30 min time, then when drilling with next size bit, the broken bolt came out. These cobalt bits are good, my titanium bits wouldn't touch the hard bolt metal, but these slowly and constantly drilled creating flakes and spirals of cuttings as they worked. Drilled about 90 rpm-just over 1 revolution a second, don't go fast or you risk dulling the tip and also breaking the bit. Oiled bit tip often. Apply just enough adequate pressure to cut-create consistent cuttings. Take breaks as arms tire out. I had to use a cheap harbor freight 90 degrees driver attached to my drill to give the proper space and angle to drill for the limited working space. Luckily the bolt that broke was accessible enough without lifting the vehicle body or engine. Before I drilled, I did heat the broken bolt with a propane torch (protect any flammable or wires if needed) and let cool to help loosen and sprayed for a week with penetrating oil. You must center punch as precise as possible in case you need to drill the bolt as big as possible before inserting an extractor. Don't jump bit sizes, work with each size progressing up. If this method will or does not work for you, the Internet says you'll have to find someone to mig weld on a washer and nut, using the special mig rod mg600 can even get out deeply broken bolts. When removing any frozen bolts/nuts Always heat to a dull red glow with a propane torch(a good 6 min) or use an even hotter oxy acetanin torch, to help expansion unseize-break rust-loctite etc, let cool, then hammer to shock threads, apply penetrating oil-up to a week if you have the time, then unbolt or break if still frozen(if it breaks, use this kit or weld).

I find these work exactly as described.

As long as you do your due diligence, using a penetrating oil letting soak for 24 hours a little bit of heat drill with the proper sized bit to the right depth and use the right amount of tension on the extractor. These things work amazing this is an original bolt in a 95 Silverado that has been broken off in a hole for over four years. Did the previous steps and it cracked loose the first time.

Didn't work any better than my cheap set.I was unable to remove a broken off bolt from my Harleys frame.I ended up using a regular steel drill bit to drill a pilot hole. That was the only way I could get these bits to penetrate metal.Then the left hand bit spun the broken bolt right out.

Spectacular! Yesterday, I screwed up... I was assembling a new big brake kit for my car and I mis-read the instructions and overtorqued a bolt... so far that I snapped the head of the bolt right off. It was a small (1/4") stainless steel sucker. To make matters worse, I had just used red LocTite on the threads, so that sucker was going to be in there hard and fast. I drilled through the screw w/ a 7/64" bit and screwed around for over an hour yesterday with an extraction tool from my local auto parts store... the best I could do. When the threads on that extractor did nothing but turn dull and flatten together, I came to Amazon. 20 hours later, these arrived at my door. I walked out to the garage, took out the #2 extractor and dropped it in the hole I had drilled yesterday. I tapped it with a hammer a few times, attached a T-shaped tap handle and gave a slow 1/4 turn. I tapped it 3-4 more times and gave it another 1/4 turn... the screw started coming out! Probably 2 minutes after I unboxed these tools, I had removed the stub of the screw and my project was back on track. Now I've got a nice set of extractors in a sturdy box, waiting for my next screw-up. -------------- EDIT: I remembered a rusted off bolt on a valve cover I needed to fix, so I pulled the box out a week later. I drilled out the bolt (someone else torqued off the head this time), dropped the tiny extractor in the hole, tap-tap-tap, unscrewed the fastner with no problem! 2 for 2 wins!

My dad blunted these in about ten minutes. He then said they weren't 'hanson' and I should ask for a refund. I haven't even told him about the import tax. That said, I've used them for a ton of things since, very useful in drywall. Not great at extracting hardened steel manifold bolts though, in case you were wondering. Save yourself the time and heli coil it or take it to an engineer.

Excelente producto y la Marca siempre me ha gustado, son de excelente calidad sus herramientas

Todo bien, gracias...

Good Quality

Produto parece ser de boa qualidade, produto chegou conforme o anúncio. 🇧🇷