Rust Reformer Brush-On Coating

Worked as described. Converted rust to a black primed surface. I prepped the surface by grinding the excess paint covering rust and cleaning with alcohol. Quantity was good, milky so it last a long time.

Awesome! This has worked great.... so far. PLEASE read the directions! It needs to be shaken. The surface needs to be prepped... I.E. - scraped with a wire brush or sandpaper to remove any loose rust. If you plan on pouring it into a container to brush it on the container needs to be metal .... or I used an old glass ashtray without any issues. It didn't etch the glass. I used a disposable brush. I painted it and set my ashtray below my pipe to catch any drips. This worked out great because I didn't get any drips on my concrete. I allowed it to sit the MINIMUM 4 hours before I coated it with an exterior oil based paint.... Yes it needs to be painted with an oil based paint. (exterior, if outside) This is not meant to be the only coating. It needs a top coat. I am happy with my project of painting the gas lines on my new generator. It turned out really nice looking.

This product converts rust. If you do not have rust, it does next to nothing. You should use a needle scaler and wire brush on a drill to clean all flaking rust off of the surface and then bring the rust down so it is a small layer on top of the metal. Then 2-3 coats of this product will turn it all black. This is similar in effect to what happens to a iron skillet after treating with a lot of cooking. Once you have achieved a black layer with no rust showing through, you need to apply a good layer or two of paint on the surface. Then if you like,, (such as for an auto underside) a coating of CRC 06026 Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor to keep it rust free for a long time. I am giving the product only 4 stars because the bottle is too small and too narrow and easily tips over causing spills. Also be sure to shake the contents well as the fluid does weird stuff as it sits. Only pour out exactly what you need into another cup because you cannot pour any leftover back into the bottle. Note that the bottle is only 8 ounces, so it it smaller than it looks. You can apply with wire acid brushes, or even normal brushes which can be reused by rinsing with water. Is not horrible if it touches your skin for a short time, but eye protection is a must. This is not the same product as found in the spray can of rust reformer. The spray also contains black primer and is good for smaller lighter rust areas where you just see rust starting and want to cover it up, followed by another coat of paint.

Rust-Oleum makes several products that carry the label "Rust Reformer." At the time I wrote this review the above listing contained numerous selections including a choice between a liquid and an aerosol. Although the liquid and the aerosol are both labeled Rust Reformer, the products are fundamentally different. Accordingly, understanding the differences will likely help you choose the more appropriated product. Also worth noting is that although there are two fundamentally different products, there are at least five or six different labels and part numbers. Because I became confused I called Rust-Oleum for clarifications and some answers to some questions. The information below is based both on my usage and the information provided by their technical staff. Also worth noting is that both products contain the identical phrase "Instantly converts rust to a protected paintable surface." Related to the labels, it is worth noting is that Rust-Oleum packages some products in more than one product line. The products listed above carry the label used by their automotive paint division.The Liquid: I was told that the liquid was the superior product for converting or transforming rust. The liquid is water based and contains water-based chemicals that react with rust to convert it from chemical rust to another iron-oxide based compound that has different physical properties. So, in that respect it does indeed eliminate the rust. The product is milky white out of the can and dries almost black on rust (indicating conversion) and pretty much clear elsewhere. At the time I wrote this, the 8 ounce bottle was identified by the number part 248659 on the back label (not to be confused with the number on the front label which is the label number). The same product in the household division has a label that depicts a chair and has the part number 238433. There is also another part number in an 8 ounce container of a different shape that also appears to be the same product. That part number is 7830730. As I recall, the staff was unfamiliar with the part number and suspected it was the same product being marketed to another segment of the paint market. And, there is also a gallon size with the part number 3575402.The Aerosol: I was told that the aerosol stops rust basically by encapsulating it thereby not allowing water to cause further rust. This appears to conflict with the phrase " Instantly converts rust to a protected paintable surface." However, this characterization is consistent with a review that someone else wrote about, where the reviewer stated that he used the aerosol on rusted metal, sanded the result, and discovered the rust was still present and was not converted. This product comes out of the can black and dries black. This product also appears to be Xylol based as are a lot of aerosol paint products. Possibly there is something in the paint that may do something more than standard primer to convert or retard rust other than encapsulate it, but typically chemical reactions with metals transpire in a water based environment. As I recall, the automotive division product has the part number 248658 and the home division product has the part number 215215.I have used both products and both worked well. I did not do a direct comparison and did not evaluate their long-term durability. I also used another liquid product called Corroseal around 15 or 20 years ago and at that time found it to be excellent.Regarding which product to choose, my advice would be to use the liquid where possible and convenient especially over heavier rusted areas. Obviously, the aerosol is easier to apply in many instances. Also, in many cases it is likely you will apply a top coat of paint especially if you don't want the resulting surface to be black. And, in my experience it is always preferable to remove as much rust as possible by scraping, wire-brushing, sanding, or by chemical means.

Have used this for several years on many rusty objects. It works very well and can be painted over. Great product!

glad to have found this rust converted, does not just cover of color the rust.

This is a water-based rust convertor that undergoes a chemical reaction to convert rust into a solid, paintable surface. It works very well under the proper conditions. Best scenario is a more or less even and sound rusty surface in conditions of moderate humidity and temperature and out of direct sunlight. Better to apply a lighter, even coat initially and then a second coat if needed. If you do it right you'll have a sound, paintable surface without having to remove all the rust down to bare metal.

Used this for years on various applications. works pretty well but will eventually flake off.Good for a year or so over cleaned but still rusty metal. I do not recommend for use under auto body fillers as it seems to not etch itself into the rusty surface.Good product for what it is intended for.